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Me in the world’s least visited country, Yemen. Photo: Lexie Alford. UNWTO, the World Tourism Organization of the United Nations keeps an overview of tourism numbers for most countries. But it lacks numbers for the least-visited ones for at least three reasons: Figures are not provided to them from every country. Some countries overstate the number of tourists, presumably as officials feel embarrassed by their low numbers or because they believe that hiking their own numbers will in fact increase tourism. UNWTO counts a number of French, British, American, Dutch and Chinese islands and territories as separate countries. That means that UNWTOs list is unsuitable in determining which countries are the least-visited ones. Which is why I decided to revisit all contries that may be among the 20 least-visited countries in thw world. I wanted to research the numbers on my own, and I have interviewed several dozens of officials, immigration officers, hoteliers, transport workers and others that may shed light on the missing or inaccurate numbers. Please find info on the references I have used for the countries that lacked UNWTO numbers, or in those cases where I discovered the UNWTO numbers to be inaccurate, as shown below in alphabetical order. This applies to 13 of the 20 least-visited countries in the world. Afghanistan: 13,400 tourists per year. Source: New York Times 2012, adjusted according to UNWTO tourism receipts 2016 (-10.7%). Confirmed through my own interviews with officials in the Ministry of Tourism in Kabul, April 2018. Central African Republic: 1,000 tourists per year. Source: My own interviews with officials in the Ministry of Tourism in Bangui, January 2018. Comores: 25,000 tourists per year. Source: World Travel and Tourism Council. Equatorial Guinea: 2,400 tourists per year. Source: My own interviews with officials in the Ministry of Tourism in Malabo, January 2018. They did not have an exact figure, but stipulated that around 200 tourists visit every month. Eritrea: 2,000 tourists per year. Source: My own interviews with officials in the Ministry of Tourism on the outskirts of Asmara, November, 2017. They told me that “just above 2,000 tourists” visit per year, a bit off the 142,000 that the country claim through their UNWTO numbers. Kiribati: 3,600 tourists per year. Source: My own interviews with The Kiribati National Tourism Office (KNTO) in South Tarawa, March, 2018. Libya: 200 tourists per year. Source: My own interviews with employees at Ministry of Tourism and the travel agency that organizes trips to the country. April, 2018. Nauru: 130 tourists per year. Source: Three interviews with immigration officials at the Nauru Airport. They told me that they get 11 tourists per month. Somalia: 12,200 tourists per year. Source: My own interviews with the tour operators that organize trips to Mogadishu, as well as the diplomatic missions of Somaliland. Almost all tourists go to Somaliland, only around 200 a year visit Mogadishu. South Sudan: 2,200 tourists per year. Source: My own interviews with several officials at the Ministry of Wildlife Conservation and Tourism, in Juba, South Sudan, Aug-Sept. They informed me that they had 319,060 foreign visitors in 2016 and that 0.7 % of them were tourists. Turkmenistan: 7,000 tourists per year. Based on 8,700 tourists as listed in Statistical Yearbook of Turkmenistan, 2012, and a reduction of around 20 % as confirmed through interviews with Turkmen tour operators. Tuvalu: 800 tourists per year. Information provided to me in two interviews with Statistical Bureau of Tuvalu, February 2018. Yemen: 60 tourists per year. Source: Interview with Ministry of Immigration in Aden, April 2018. Want to read the book? The book about the world’s 20 least visited countries is due to be published this winter. The working title is The World’s 20 Least Visited Countries. Please sign up to receive an email when the book is available to buy. You can follow the Gunnar Garfors on Instagram, Twitter or Facebook. The 43 year old Norwegian is still travelling extensively and shares photos and travel tips from all over the world.

Kangerlussuaq (SFJ) airport in Greenland doesn’t feature on any of these itineraries. There are potentially some really bad air routes out there. Judging by the IATA airport codes, that is. I have earlier written a post about some of the most innovative itineraries you can fly, but there are of course also some less desireable ones. Luckily, most are not operational due to distance between them or the obscurity of the airports involved. But with a private jet, you can fly many of these. Some will however require aerial refuelling. IDI-OTS (Indiana County/Jimmy Stewart Fld, USA – Anacortes, USA): A lot of people should fly this route. The last airport is however actually closed, but the IATA code still remains. DIS-AST-ERS (Ngot Nzoungou, Congo Brazzaville – Astoria Regional, USA – Eros, Namibia): This itinerary is unlikely to attract many passengers. RAC-IST (John H Batten, USA – Istanbul, Turkey). A coincidence that this route connects wannabe dictators Donald Trump and Recep Tayyip Erdoğan? I think not. Wisconsin voted for the current US president. BAD-SEX (Barksdale Air Force Base, USA – Sembach Air Base, Germany): Perhaps not the route you wanna fly before meeting your partner. SIN-FUL (Singapore – Fullerton, USA): Fullerton is, after all, only 365 kilometers from Las Vegas. FAT-GUY (Fresno Yosemite International, USA – Guymon Municipal, USA): Well, the USA is country number 17 on the list of those with the highest body mass index. MOR-ONS (Moore-Murrell, USA – Onslow, Australia): 17 624 kilometers is further than the longets air route in the world. JAC-KAS-SES (Jackson Hole, USA – Karasburg, Namibia – Selfield, USA): A bit of a detour, I’d say. MAD-COW-DIS-EZE (Madrid, Spain – Coquimbo, Chile – Loubomo, Republic of the Congo – Buenos Aires): Do excuse the unorthodox spelling. COP-KIL-LER (Cooperstown, USA – Kilwa, DRC – Leinster, Australia): Likelihood is that you never heard about any of these ‘cities’. Only 6 000 live in Kilwa in the Democratic Republic of the Congo while less than 2 000 live in Cooperstown in New York state. And Leinster? Only 700 people live in what is a mining town in the middle of Australia. FRA-NCE (Frankfurt – Nice): This route is actually served by several airlines. To Francophiles this is presumably the best route out there. To the rest of us; not so much. NOR-WAY (Nordfjordur, Iceland – Greene County, USA): Payback time, Francophiles. Since I am Norwegian. Let me finish off with a quirky itinerary that isn’t actually bad at all. DON-TDR-INK-AND-FLY (Dos Lagunas, Guatemala – Theodore, Australia – Winkler County, USA – Anderson Regional, USA – Finley, Australia): Most importantly. Unless you have your own pilot. The United States may seem overrepresented, but the country has more airports than the next ten countries on the list, combined. There are over 13,000 airports in the US, Brazil is number two with 4,000. And six countries have zero airports. Find your own strange or less desirable itineraries at World Airport Codes. #aiportcodes #baditineraries #IATA #worstairroutes

In Kingston, Jamaica I ran together with partner in crime Thorkild Gundersen. I always travel with hand luggage only, but I still somehow manage to squeeze in some ultra light running shoes and shorts. Why on earth would I waste valuable packing space for that? Because to run while on the road is one of my top travel tips. There are at least 12 reasons why you should run too, while on holiday. To go for a run is an excellent way to get to know a new place, and to discover hidden treasures such as restaurants, bars, parks, beaches and hidden paths that you would otherwise never have found. Many of these are worth revisiting later, when wearing different kinds of shoes. As a foreigner you will usually stand out, also when you jog. Use this to your advantage and get in touch with locals and fellow travellers alike. This especially applies if you smile to those that you pass on your run. When you are on vacation, many of us sit still more than usual, whether in plane seats or on beach chairs. This tends to show on your waistline after your holiday. Again, when on holiday, we usually eat and drink better and more than at home. The price of your trip will increase even more if you have to buy new and bigger clothes after you have returned. Staying in shape makes you feel healthier. It also prepares you better for long journeys. Being out of shape is great for boosting jetlag. Breaking a sweat now and then makes me sleep better. Bring your smartphone, and you are virtually guaranteed to come across photo opportunities that you wouldn’t otherwise have. Some of my own best photos are from my jogging trips. Your phone can also be used to track your route and to get you home in one piece should you get lost. Studies show that excerise is good for your own mental health. I notice that running boosts my creativity. Usually I get several ideas during a run. Sightseeing tours for joggers are being organized in more and more towns and cities around the. Join one of those to meet people and to get to know the place. Perfect for those of you that prefer company. If you can’t find such tours, reach out through social media or ask around at the local sports shop or at the nearest running ground or football field. The best thing about it all is that you won’t have to start at zero when returning home. You will, in other words, stay in shape. The only issue is that you’ll end up with sweaty and smelly gear. Which is why I always carry a small bag of washing powder. And be aware of dodgy neighbourhoods. Ask around if you are not sure about where running may be a bad idea. Enjoy your run, globejogger. Me on the runway in Tuvalu. There is only one. And the airport code is, of course, FUN. #globejogging #running #worldrun #globerunner #globerun #keepinginshape #funrun #jogging #globejog

Air Kiribati has landed in Funafuti. Photo: Air Kiribati. What is happening to the world? Angola is now issueing visas on arrival for people from over 60 countries. Saudi Arabia is accepting non-religious tourists. And Tuvalu is now connected to the world by another airline! Travelling to every country has never been easier. Although there are still some tough nuts out there, i.e. Yemen, Libya and South Sudan. Tuvalu has been the world’s most isolated country for years, being served by propeller planes from only one destination by one airline. That has now changed! Air Kiribati (pronounced Kiribass) inaugurated their Tarawa-Funafuti-Tarawa route earlier in March. Funafuti is the capital of Tuvalu, and has the best airport code in the world: FUN. You can now fly from Kiribati to Tuvalu and back every Wednesday, creating more FUN [traffic]. That is great news for both locals and tourists that previously would have to fly via Fiji and spend at least one night in between. Air Kiribati connects the two countries by a Dash 8 100 series which can carry 35 passengers. You are in other words still depending on propellers to get to Tuvalu, but the number of places you can fly from just doubled. The route has not been in operation since 2001, when Air Kiribati connected the countries for a short while. “We are very excited to reconnect Kiribati and Tuvalu with this once a week service using our Dash 8 aircraft. These two nations have strong traditional ties and we are confident that the service will be well supported. We are thrilled to play a role in foster greater access for economic development and trade as well as facilitate increased tourism for our island nations”, said Danial Rochford. He is General Manager Commercial and Operations at Air Kiribati. Most of the passengers and crew of the first flight from Funafuti to Tarawa. Photo: Tuvalu Government Media Office. The flight leaves Tarawa at 12:00 and arrives Funafuti at 15:00. It returns 16:00 and is back in Tarawa at 19:00. Prices start at 350 Australian dollars, which is a bargain. Comparatively speaking, that is. Nine paying passengers flew from Tarawa to Funafuti, while 20 travelled back. Add 15 VIPs, and the return flight was totally full. But has this service really made much difference to Tuvalu’s status as the most isolated country? There are still flights only 3 or 4 days a week (Fiji Airways’ service operates Tuesdays, Thursdays and sometimes Saturdays), but having two companies and two destinations, instead of just one certainly makes an impact. Travelling around the region is now easier, and who knows, there may be more to come. Rumour has it that Air Kiribati plans additional new routes in the Pacific. Exciting times in an exciting and less-travelled part of the world. Nauru is now the only island country in the world served by only one airline, but at least you have a choice of three direct destinations (Tarawa, Nadi and Brisbane) and you’ll fly a jetplane (Nauru Airlines have 5 Boeing 737-300s). So, depending on which criteria you look for, the most isolated country in the world is now Tuvalu OR Nauru. Being the indisputable champion of isolation is a title I am sure Tuvalu is happy to share. And yes, you should visit. The country is beautiful. And among the world’s least-visited ones. The runway in Funafuti is used for anything but planes, most of the time. Me, on both sides of the country (at least of Funafuti). Expect contrasts and colours you aren’t used to. Kiribati ain’t too shabby, either. Room with a view over not so troubled water. But you might need a ferryman. #PacificOcean #Kiribati #travellinginthePacific #howbesttotraveltoTuvalu #AirKiribati #Tuvalu #Nauru

The colours of Tuvalu can be pure magic. I’d usually add more photos, but the internet speeds (or lack thereof) won’t allow such. More photos from here and elsewhere on my Instagram account, though: @garfors Being in Paradise isn’t too bad. Unless you’re held there against your own will. I am currently in the least accessible country in the world, and I am unable to leave. Tuvalu is the only country in the world that is 1) Connected by air to only one foreign destination 2) Served by only one airline 3) By propeller planes only AND 4) In the hands of an airline that is not based in its own country Altogether making it less accessible than even Nauru or Kiribati. The plane company in question is Fiji Airways. I was, together with around 50 other people from around the world, supposed to have left the capital Funafuti on Tuesday February 13. 72 hours later, no aircraft has landed or taken off. Not even the flight supposed to carry another 50 or so passengers on Thursday February 15. Rumour has it that a plane will arrive, as scheduled, tomorrow, but this is apparently already fully booked, and unable to accommodate the 100 or so passengers waiting to leave the country from two cancelled flight. Information from the airline is non-existing, and no effort seems to be made in order to clear the backlog of passengers. The question now is just how long the delay will be. 96 hours? 120? 240? “What are you doing here?” people ask me. “Trying to leave,” I answer. And don’t get me wrong, Tuvalu is a beautiful place. It is just that I don’t like not being able to leave at my own will. At least Funafuti, the capital and main island is picture perfect. Luckily I have a book to write, and this is the perfect place to do it. I still have more countries to research for it, and I am hoping Fiji Airways will get its act together sooner rather than later. Update: We left Funafuti exactly 100 hours late. A personal record for me. May I never break it. #Fiji #FijiAirways #motherofallflightdelays #Tuvalu

With Ducth Captain Ramon Hagelen of Emirates. He took us to Sydney on our last leg. We did it! We have now circumnavigated the globe via the six inhabited continents faster than anyone else. I travelled with two flying Dutchmen, my friends Ronald Haanstra and Erik de Zwart. 56 hours and 56 minutes in planes and airports to get to Sydney, from Sydney took its toll, and our celebrations commenced with showers. Long showers. It all started in Australia on January 31 at 13:28 when the 747 in Qantas’ colours started picking up speed on one of the runways of Sydney International Airport. The Australian carrier took us to Santiago, where we would only have 55 minutes between flights before Copa was scheduled to take us to Panama. That Qantas departed 38 minutes late wasn’t exactly promising, but strong tailwind was on our side and we actually landed early in the Chilean capital. Copa usually lands on time, also in the southernmost country in North America, and we celebrated with beer. Panama Lager. Ronald and I went for the Light version, we did after all have four more flights to go, whereas Erik went all-in and got a bottle of regular Panama Lager. It turns out that Panama Lager has 4.0 % alcohol whereas the light version has 3.8 %. Iberia took over and got us to Madrid and Algiers. That a woman fainted on board the Panama-Madrid flight made us somewhat uneasy, as chances were we’d have to make an emergency landing to get her medical attention. Luckily she was fine. Emirates got the honours of flying us to Dubai, and then the final leg to Sydney. We landed four minutes ahead of schedule back in Sydney at 22:26, a total of 56 hours and 56 minutes after we had started in the same city. I guess the world must be round, after all. Our budget wouldn’t have allowed private jets, but we wouldn anyhow not have been able to fly much faster. And Guinness World Records only allows scheduled flights anyhow. You can see our exact route here, on a zoomable map. It did however take two attempts to break the record, as we failed on our first try in June 2017. We then missed our last flight by four minutes. – Nothing motivates like failure, and we have now undertaken a twice-in-a-lifetime experience. Luckily, this time it was a hundred percent successful and we have thoroughly enjoyed two and a half hectic but epic days of travel around the globe, Erik said. Thousands of people followed the GPS tracked journey on garfors.com and via #recordrunworld on social media. But why the hell did we do it? I’ll let Ronald answer. – We did this to have fun, to inspire people to explore the world and to show that even big dreams can come true. Travelling 43,000 kilometers at an average speed of 750 km/h, with loads of good stories thrown in, has made this the ultimate boys’ trip. But it wasn’t all fun and play. We also raised money for The Simple Drinking Water Foundation in the UK. It provides clean water technology to developing countries. And yes, we have compensated for our CO2 emissions. The current record is held by Michael Quandt from Germany. He used 66 hours, 31 minutes to circumnavigate the globe in 2004. That makes our new record run an improvement of nine hours and 35 minutes, or 14 percent. Quite a lot faster, in other words. It is as if the mens marathon world record of 2h2m57s would be beaten by over 17 minutes. Note that the record is still unofficial, as Guinness World Records will have to certify it. We are supplying them with evidence one of the next few days. We did it! In Sydney International Airport, after having cleared immigration. “Why do you have so little luggage,” they asked. #fastestaroundtheworldonscheduledflightsviasixcontinents #fastestaroundtheworld #sixcontinents #worldrecord #GuinnessWorldRecord

Erik de Zwart, myself and Ronald Haanstra in front of the plane that will take us on our first of several legs, hopefully all around the world. Update: We made it! We completed the cirvumnavigation of the globe in 56h56m, beating the previous record by 9h35m. Expect celebrations in Sydney this weekend. Towards the end of our last world record attempt, we missed the last plane by 4 minutes, and any hope of a world record went out the window. A bit annoying, let’s say. Little motivates more than failure, so here we fly again. The team is not exactly the same, but radio DJ and TV host Erik de Zwart and media mogul Ronald Haanstra are still on board. Which makes both of them flying Dutchmen. The goal is the same as last time; To travel around the world, via all the six inhabited continents, faster than anyone else by scheduled transport. The question is whether we will try the same route, or whether we have found better options. Our quest will commence in Sydney, Australia on January 31.  The current record is 66 ours and 31 minutes (it was briefly listed as 63h47m, but that record must have been disqualified). In less than three days we need to also visit Africa, Asia, Europe, North America and South America – although not necessarily in that order – and return to where we started. And we are limited to scheduled airlines only, as it is one of the criteria for the record to be approved as a Guinness World Record. And as our budget dictates it. But it isn’t all fun and play. We are also raising money for The Simple Drinking Water Foundation that provides clean water technology to developing countries. Please check out their work. The journey is GPS tracked, and you can follow our progress live here on garfors.com (tracking map below). We’ll use the hashtag #RecordRunWorld on Twitter and Instagram. You can see our exact route by downloading this file and opening in Google Earth. We were tracked by GPS 2,857 times during our round the world trip. How to track a travel world-record. Show your location live on Google Maps. Free real-time GPS tracker for Android.

I’ve had better sleeps, but rarely more challenging. The country is special in more ways than one. It is totally surrounded by a city, it is smaller than all 197 others and it receives more visitors per capita than any other. It certainly helps that less than a thousand people live in the Vatican, but we are nevertheless talking about 3.9 million tourists every year. That is almost 11,000 visitors per day – to a country the size of five Pentagons. Yet, virtually none of these stay the night. Not because they don’t won’t to, there simply is no accommodation open to the public. So unless you know Pope Francis better than most or you are a head of state or similar, you will never get to stay in a bed in the Vatican. Some of those important people will be invited to stay in a Vatican guest house, but normal people like you and I aren’t able to book a holiday there. Thanks for lending me that blanket, SAS! So, what is the travel hack to legally stay overnight in the Pope’s den? You have to accept a total lack of facilities and not mind sleeping directly on a marble floor. Unless you are clever and bring your own mattress or piece of cardboard, that is. It isn’t illegal to be homeless, and the guards of the Vatican will not kick you out. Unless you unsuccessfully try to hide inside the fences that is. Outside the outer fence, measuring less than a meter in height, you will be left alone by security. Then again, you will not have much space at your disposal, Italy is only 1-3 meters away, depending on where you set up your temporary “bed”. Some people have also managed to hide inside buildings or the Vatican garden, but you’re then trespassing and technically breaking the law. Which would make your entire country visit void, according to many country collector clubs. The Vatican is officially closed between 23:00 and 07:00. You can easily enter between those hours, thanks to the low fence, but you may then be told to leave on short notice. Both the Swiss Guard and Italian police patrol the premises. I stayed overnight in the Vatican in late November, and it sure was freezing! Six layers and a plane blanket borrowed from Scandinavian Airlines just about helped me cope throughout the night, I even managed to get some sleep. Although in the morning it took me a few good hours to regain normal body temperature. How I avoided third degree pneumonia is beyond belief. In the middle of the night, one of the guards actually came over and greeted me. I guess the Swiss Guard recognizes a newcomer when he sees one. There were a few homeless people sleeping next to the fence, just like me, but to them it seemed routine. And the guards probably knew all about them. So, did this experience make me a homeless, or a hobo, as someone called me? I was, but by choice. That makes me lucky and privileged. But why? The nearest hotel is less than 10 meters away from the Vatican. Well, if something seems impossible, it poses a challenge. It’s like managing to find a beer in a dry country. Or ordering meat in a vegan restaurant. I like challenges. Although this one was particularly cold. Do note that this wasn’t my idea. I was inspired by Danish travelers Torbjørn C. Pedersen (Once Upon a Saga) and Jacob Øster (Expedition Everywhere) who have both done the same in the past. Next time I’ll cross my fingers for an official invite to the Vatican Guest House. #StayingthenightintheVatican #SleepingintheVatican #accommodation #travelhack #Vatican #VaticanCity #Pope

Sometimes some people get some stupid ideas. This particular one came to life together with Mr. Thorkild Gundersen. He is a producer, journalist and the man behind the coolest music festival in Norway, Over Oslo (the stage is on a mountain with Oslo and the fjord as the backdrop, it’s magic). We met up in Oslo last winter. I hope beers were involved. Our dialogue went something like this: – What if we travel around the Caribbean to do some filming? – What the hell would we need that raw material for? – We edit it together and see what kind of TV clips we end up with. Sort of like short travel pilots. – This has been done before, like a million times. – Not by someone spending only 24 hours in each country. – Hahaha…totally insane. But let’s top it. How about we do it without any preparations or research at all, and see what the hell comes of it? – You are aware that we will never be hired for any TV jobs ever again? – Fuck it. Easy is boring. And we’ll have an amazing holiday anyway. And we did. You can judge the end result yourself, through three short videos. All was shot on an Iphone and later edited by fellow Norwegians Peder Opland and Herman Hjelkrem. We actually filmed a fourth one in Jamaica, but that was done in Norwegian and still hasn’t been edited. Click on the titles below to watch on Youtube. 1. The Bahamas (2m29s) Our first video. And Thorkild actually lost his plane to Nassau, so we had even less than 24 hours. More of a challenge, if nothing else. 2. Guyana (2m57s) Yes, you have to see that waterfall. Magic, truly magic! And I got to be co-pilot in the small plane on the way there. 3. Trinidad and Tobago (4m11s) – can also be watched at the top of this article This video turned out to be hectic as hell to make. There was simply too much to do in this little country just north of South America. Thorkild and myself in Kingston, Jamaica. #TrinidadandTobago #Caribbean #TheBahamas #travelpilot #Guyana

These gentlemen in Herat will face a lot of bureaucracy in order should they wish to travel extensively. You may or may not be surprised by which country the dubious honour of having the world’s worst – or weakest – passport belongs to. Do note that the figures are for 2017. Brexit has yet to be implemented, which means that the UK still issues the 5th strongest passport in the world. The country with the least attractive passport is unfortunately rarely associated with positive news, and chances are that you guessed Afghanistan. Followed by lands often mentioned in the same league; Iraq, Pakistan, Syria and Somalia. The list is provided by The Global Passport Index, and media outlets usually focus on the best passports. The winner in 2017 was Singapore. Citizens from there can visit 159 countries without a visa. Afghan passport holders can only visit 23 countries without a visa, that is one seventh of the fellow Asian country. The question is, who welcomes Afghanis with no questions asked? Typically island nations of Africa, Oceania and the Caribbean, such as Palau, Seychelles and Dominica. Plus the Maldives, of course. A lot of famous holiday destinations, in fact. The problem is only that you’ll need a fair amount of money to go on holiday, and you are unlikely to be in the mood or position to do so with poverty and fighting at home – even if you can afford it. The world’s 11 worst passports: 1) Afghanistan – 23 visa free countries 2) Iraq and Pakistan – 26 visa free countries 4) Syria – 29 visa free countries 5) Somalia – 33 visa free countries 6) Bangladesh and Yemen – 35 visa free countries 8) Nepal, Iran, Sri Lanka and Sudan – 36 visa free countries You’ll find the countries most nationalities can travel to in my piece about the world’s easiest 24 countries to visit. #difficulttravels #weakestpassports #Worldsworstpassports

By the old, battered lighthouse in Mogadishu. It was no surprise, really. I ended up travelling to Mogadishu for the weekend alone. Despite having inviting pretty much everyone I knew to come along. Would you have joined? Well, you’ll get along pretty well with most of my friends then. But what is the fear all about? Let’s start with various degrees of civil war since 1991 which in turn have put large parts of Mogadishu in ruins. Paved roads are a rarity and 4WD vehicles are preferred or even needed on many of the roads. Add radical groups, notably al-Shabaab, which destabilized the city for years. There was no functioning government for years, only peacekeeping troops from the UN and the African Union kept some form for semi-stability in parts of the city. But al-Shabaab was kicked out in 2011, and there has been varying degrees of optimism ever since. Mogadishu is now one of the cities in the world with the most ongoing construction work. Then again, there are close to 3 million people here, to rebuild it all will still take years and years. Also add the odd terror bomb that causes fear and halts reconstruction. I visited Mogadishu in August, 2017. There was a lot of smiles and laughter to be seen and heard. The numerous building projects around town seem to create a sense of optimism. So does the new government which was formed in early 2017. Hassan Ali Khayre, the prime minister, has coincidentally lived in Norway – my country. He holds a dual Norwegian-Somalian citizenship and has previously worked as an aid worker and oil executive. People were optimistic about the government and its chances of success. “This government is the strongest we’ve had in decades,” I was told. That doesn’t necessarily say much, but the optimism itself counts for something. Expect to see signs of fighting all over Mogadishu. To travel around Mogadishu, the capital, was in more ways than one a rather schizofrenic experience. There are a lot of residential houses and commercial buildings damages by ammunition of very different caliber and very varying degrees of power. That makes for a rather surreal backdrop for kids playing games or kicking footballs in the streets. Mogadishu is a coastal city with a big port, impressive beaches and rugged cliffs which the waves keep battering. Ruins of banks, restaurants, apartments and hotels are lining many streets, whereas new buildings are popping up in seemingly random places. Turkey is investing quite a bit of money here, and Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, the increasingly authorian Turkish president is taking the credit for it by naming schools and other projects his country is financing partly or fully. Turkish Airlines is also the biggest airline with regular flights to Mogadishu. In fact, it is probably the only one you have even heard about. Or does Daallo Airways or Jubba Airways ring a bell? I didn’t think so. To travel to Mogadishu as a tourist takes a bit of preparation, as you will not be allowed to leave the airport unless you have adequate protection. As in hired guns. Four companies organize trips for tourists and will sort you out with all logistics, included the needed protection. I went for one of the local ones, Visit Mogadishu. And I did not regret my choice. It is a local company, which helps the local economy, instead of a foreign one. And their local presence ensures that they know everybody, something that opened quite a few doors I would otherwise not have seen the other side of. I did, of course, see the usual highlights such as the beach, the lighthouse, the fishmarket and remains from the Black Hawk Down incident. But I was also taken to streets with no names and to an IDP (internally displaced persons) camp, and was introduced to influential business people and several ex-ministers. You will be picked up from the airport and taken around in a pickup truck with one or two guides and a driver. In the back you’ll have 2-4 armed guards. Then again, you can have more hired guns in a second or even a third pickup if you pay extra. Although you already draw more than enough attention with four gun-toting guys in the back. But it can of course be quite an ego booster to have 8 or 12 guards instead of 2, 3 or 4. To be entirely safe, you should probably get 255 guards. After all, John Rambo killed 254 guys in Rambo IV. And to be fair, being driven around Mogadishu feels a little bit like a violent action flick. With ruins everywhere, you may easily start imagining where a possible ambush could take place. Behind that shed, around the next corner or from within that green shabby garage. On a serious note, Mogadishu is now considered rather safe, and I doubt that the armed guards in the back made much of a difference, except to my wallet. They do not come cheap, expect to pay 5-600USD per day, depending on the number of bullet carriers. Do note that the figure includes airport pickup, transport with driver, a guide, accommodation and all meals. And there are no souvenir shops and no functioning postal service, so there isn’t much else to spend money on. A tiny shop downtown Mogadishu. After lunch, I heard some sort of a loud bang or explosion. “Is that an terrorist attack?” I asked. Slighly uneasy. “Nah, that was just a kill,” one of the guides answered, and shrugged.”Assasinations are commonplace around here. But they aren’t after you, not to worry.” I was later informed that he had been wrong. Someones gun had been fired, but no one was hurt, let alone killed. There are still real incidents, and there are areas in town where you will not be allowed to leave the car. Keep in mind that such neighbourhoods unfortunately also exist in Detroit, Johannesburg and Sao Paulo, just use common sense. Many streets are quite lively and people, donkeys and dogs fight over space on either side of traffic while shopping, chatting, chewing khat or ordering food or drinks from street vendors. Drinks as in non-alcoholic ones, that is. Somalia is as dry as Donald Trump’s sense of humour. There are over a million of internally displaced persons in Somalia, and I visited a Kuwait funded IDP camp on the outskirts of Mogadishu. People have escaped their homes because of famine, draught, Al-Shabaab or a combination of the above. Each family has a tent of 4-5 square meters, just try fit two adults and 8 kids into one of those. IDPs I spoke to were still grateful for being offered an alternative to “absolute hell”. I came just before lunch, and over a hundred people were queueing to get their strictly measured lunch, a mix of rice and beans. The meals were distributed from two giant aluminium pans in some sort of a makeshift shed. And people were patiently waiting in line, to get their share. Men were, with a couple of exceptions, notably missing from the queue. Getting food is clearly a job for women and kids, even in such camps. Everything is lacking in Somalia, and the internally displaced people are in dire need of new lives. Kids are given some sort of schooling, which is essential to help them learn a skill that can help them provide for their families in the future. Unless the lack of food makes sure that there won’t be one. Without skills they will have to resort to begging or crime, given that they ever get old enough to engage in either. As a tourist in Mogadishu, you will not be allowed to walk outside your hotel after dark. It is is a good thing then that the hotels that welcome international guests have good kitchens. Not that I had much of an appetite after visiting the camp. You are also well protected, there were three roadblocks between the main road and the hotel entrance gate, itself made by metal and protected by armed guards. There were additional men with guns in the stairways of the hotel and marksmen on its roof. “So, this is a very safe hotel,” I asked. “Of course,” Mohammed said. The lovely local teacher lived next door and had joined me in the courtyard to hear about Norway and to exchange stories. “Then again, an American journalist was killed just outside it in 2008. Not to forget the two French gentlemen that were kidnapped from inside the hotel in 2011. And the former owner of it was shot and killed in 2015. But now, it’s very safe.” I was not entirely convinced. “And please do not let anyone into your room, even if they knock on your door. The room is your safe zone,” I was told before heading for a nights sleep. Knowing that there was a window above my door. Whoever really wanted to enter wouldn’t have too much of a problem doing so. Mogadishu is becoming nicer and safer every year, and it is certainly a dream destination for the adventurous traveller. And bucketlist material, for sure. Who do you know that has visited the city lately? Just expect to be called a maniac, an idiot, a crazy person or something of similar nature.  Given that you are among the few that actually consider visiting Mogadishu, you are anyhow likely to find such name calling flattering. I sure do. It beats being called normal by miles. I would, regardless of your bad arse reputation, still suggest that you travel to a few other places first. You might experience a light culture shock if your travel resume is limited to Paris, a few Caribbean islands and Machu Picchu. I was asked to join in for a lot of selfies in Peace Garden. Not even being around all the guns in the Mid West will prepare you much. The only gun-free zone in Mogadishu is the Peace Garden. Which ironically is being protected by armed guards. It’s a green oasis with well-trimmed lawns with benches surrounded by lush trees not far from the beach. Playgrounds, coffee shops and restaurants add to the tranquility of the fenced park. Entrance fee is 1USD, which ensures that only the well-heeled can afford to come here. “Those without a dollar to spare go to the beach instead,” I was told. Just be aware that you as a foreigner are stepping into an ambush zone. I was virtually the white guy in town, for sure in Peace Garden. And those who can afford to enter can also afford smartphones with cameras. I was asked to be in 30-40 selfies with locals who cracked up by the sight of a sole blonde guy. My face even ended up in a photo together with an entire football team. Smiles were all around, and I loved the friendly and welcoming atmosphere. Unfortunately I had to decline taking part in photos in the end. It was not far from getting dark, and the armed guards were getting nervous. They would only get paid if I got back to the hotel alive. Darkness is a good cover for snipers. Very few people visit Mogadishu, although the number is on the rise. For inspiration and a general impression of what it is like, please find a few photos from my trip below. Or visit Mogadishu yourself. Consider that a challenge, if you so wish. Fishermen on a stormy mission. Then a swimmer appeared. With their catch of today. There is always a lot happening on Secondo Lido Beach. Time for work. Sand is being used instead of soap for cleaning the boats. There is always time for play, in Mogadishu too. And some people have a lot to think about. Lido Beach could pass for being in a country that tourists flock to. The locals are certainly taking advantage. Chilling, after a long day at sea. There is however a lot of rubbish not far from Lido Beach. Not even swordfish get to the fish market by themselves . The fish market is thriving from very early in the morning until a little after lunch. Military personell and armed guards are everywhere. The airport in particular, is very well protected. And barriers have been put up around a lot of buildings. You wonder why? This branch of Commercial and Savings Bank of Somalia has seen better days. This university has been turned into a base for The African Union. My protectors. Remniscents from the Black Hawk Down inscident are still very much present in severalparts of the city. The crash site itself is however now covered by a building. The roof of my hotel is usually occupied by marksmen or other armed guards. The old Parliament of Somalia. The new one is in slightly better shape. No football pitch, no problem. The best way to win a football match? Carry a gun and bring an armed friend. Likelihood is that you won’t be tackled. The impression four armed guards in the back of a pickup truck makes on kids. The non-paved roads around Bakaara market are very slippery at times. The owner managed to cut the donkey loose. Just another Uber driver in Mogadishu. Fancy some khat? Who needs a windshield anyway? I got to see a camel farm. They offer meat, milk and rides. Beerta Nabada, or The Peace Garden, in Mogadishu. The best team in town! I was the newest boy to hang with New Boys. At a IDP camp on the outskirts of the city. Mother of six. Heartbreaker or not, everyone has to stand in line. The plastic covers are to protect from the very occasional heavy rain. Mother of five, outside her tent. And inside her tent, with the two youngest kids. I am interviewing one of the people running the camp, for use in my next book. With my translator to the right. The toilet sheds are covered in metal plates. Rugged cliffs just outside the fish market. #Somalia #Mogadishu #visitMogadishu #trip #holiday #visitSomalia

In front of Taedong River and Juche Tower in Pyongyang in 2017, my first visit in eight years. I first visited North Korea in 2009. North Korea, or DPRK, as they prefer to be called. As in Democratic People’s Republic of Korea. First of all, it isn’t democratic. Very far from it. Secondly, it certainly doesn’t belong to the people, most of whom have no say in anything even resembling free elections, and many of whom have their human rights violated regularly. And thirdly, it isn’t a republic either. It is governed by the “supreme leader” and a huge and powerful military. North Korea is the world’s only Stalinist regime, one that masters the art of PR to keep itself relevant and interesting, as well as feared by the rest of the world. Visitors are fed propaganda on an unprecedented scale from before they arrive to they leave. You know that you will be lied to, in your face. You know that you will only get to see the nice parts and what the government wants you to see. Hence the ever present two guides (stroke guards) that make sure that you see what you are supposed to and do as you are told. Which also means that North Korea is probably the safest country in the world to visit, given that you stick to the rules and regulations. And there are many of them. The country is atheist, so stay away from any missionary-like activity, don’t bring religious texts with you. And do not nick anything. We all heard about the American who allegedly stole some propaganda posters. He might have been let off with a much more lenient penalty had he not been a US citizen. A Danish friend of a friend had to pay 5 dollars for a towel gone missing from his hotel room. He could prove that it wasn’t in his luggage, but was still held accountable. His fate could have been worse had he indeed been from the United States of America, North Korea’s enemy number one. One of the propaganda posters on the side of a Pyong street in 2009. I didn’t see any similar ones on the street in 2017, but there were plenty in the book shop. Americans are openly targeted in the book shop (there is only one open to foreigners) in Pyongyang. From 2017. There were similar cards and posters available in 2009. Not exactly born in the USA. So, why did I go back, in the first place? As usual, I wanted to see for myself. The world has come a long way in almost a decade, and I was keen on finding out whether that also applied to North Korea. And yes, there were some changes. My mobile phone wasn’t taken away from me in the border, as it was in 2009. Which was totally meaningless, given that there was obviously no roaming. My phone would in other words have been useless. It seems like the government has come to the same conclusion. I could now keep my phone, although the make and model was written down by the custom officers on the borders. They also went through my luggage by hand. Back in 2009, they had merely X-rayed it. And as last time, they went through my magazines and books. I had to editions of The Economist with me, but I had gone through them myself in advance to make sure that they were Kim Jong-un free. I had left the edition with him on the front page in Dandong, the Chinese border city my train departed from. And yes, this time I took a train in, as opposed to going by plane. The guides were young and relatively well-informed about North Korea’s place in the world, probably primarily thanks to having lived abroad themselves for several years. Their parents had been running businesses abroad, they told me. Which meant that they were used to the internet. “The internet is is available in Universities here in DPRK too,” they claimed. Although they went on to explain that it was a modified version of the internet, translated to Korean (and properly censored by the translators, surely). Which also means that it is a dead, non-dynamic version of some very specific parts of the internet. “Our intranet is pretty good, though,” they assured me. And told me about a dating service, sports sections and news. Hanging with locals in Pyongyang in 2009. They were coincidentally passing by, of course. Hanging with a local guide in Pyongyang in 2017. She feels totally comfortable, as you can see. I guess I have this effect on women. She works for The Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum, the main museum of North Korea. I have never before seen such glorification of war. She were kind enough to ask me whether I had heard conflicting stories about The Korean War. “Be aware that what they are telling you is propaganda,” she said. No one commented on my Nelson Mandela T-shirt. Then again, virtually no one has heard about him in DPRK. “Hey, I just read online that Norway will be the first country to ban non-electric cars,” one of them told me over lunch. This surprised me for several reasons. I remembered reading something along those lines before venturing into internet free North Korea, so they actually got some real news from abroad. I assumed that the story had travelled as slow as a train riding Norwegian. But when I later checked the English versions of the news story, I realised that North Korean media had actually been very fast to report on the news – doing so the same day as it appeared in English. This also puzzled me as this particular news shouldn’t make much sense in North Korea. There are almost no cars in North Korea, they shouldn’t really care whether cars went all-electric or not. Perhaps they didn’t. And perhaps this wasn’t really in the news in North Korea. Perhaps this particular news piece had been past on to me, being Norwegian, as a gesture or to make me trust them more, and to be more likely to buy into the propaganda I was regularly fed. Given that USA is North Korea’s favourite enemy number one, it is no wonder that westerners that can pass for Americans, are met with hostility when walking around town. I have blonde hair and blue eyes, and I was shocked by the hatred on many people’s faces when they looked at me. Not that I blame them, they have for their enitre lives been told that the US is the evil empire and that its citizens are braindead lackeys that hate and resent the DPRK and its role model citizens. I particularly noticed this when jogging in central Pyongyang. With a guide, of course. He was rather unfit, and uncapable of running far or fast, so we ended up running around a few blocks nearby the train station. He repeatedly told me that we had been running far enough, while gasping for air. I still demanded to run some more to get some proper exercise, the compromise was that I ran up and down a street on my own, while he recovered next to a tree at the end of the street. I passed hundreds of people. Workers were heading to the office, mothers were walking their kids to school and government eployees were minding their own business while street vendors (which I certainly did not see in 2009) were selling food from small mobile shacks. One of my guieds was good sports and went jogging for the first time in several years. The solar panels hanging from many, or in some cases most, balconies of every residential building was explained with pride. “DPRK is such a modern society that we are in need of a lot of electricity,” one guide said when I asked. There had been few or none solar panels when I first visited. Now they were everywhere, especially outside Pyongyang. I had seed some from the train, but I really noticed it when we drove to Nampo, the most important seaport on the west coast of the country. “So the solar panels don’t mean that the government cannot cope with the demand for electricity?” I asked. Before adding “only joking” after seconds of uncomfortable silence. Traffic wardens changing shifts in Pyongyang in 2017. There’s only one solar panel on the building in the back, outside Pyongyang they are everywhere. There were also many more cars than in 2009. In Pyongyang, that is. There were even moments were something slightly resembling a traffic jam could be seen. Not for long, but still. The moment we left Pyongyang, five to ten minutes could pass between everytime we saw another car. Despite the 8 or 10 lane roads between certain cities. That is in sharp contrast to the narrow gravel roads elsewhere. Where motorized transport is very rare. Bikes are not. Bikes are everywhere, especially outside Pyongyang. But there are still many who cannot afford a bike. Which means you see a lot of people walking. No wonder many North Koreans age fast. The age expectancy in North Korea is 70 years. That is 12 years lower than in South Korea, 2 years lower than Libya and just above that of India. One evening, I met with a couple of foreigners in a bar. They had been in Pyongyang for months, for work. “I am so sick and tired of this country. All they do is lie. All the fucking time! They lie about small things, big thing, useless things. It is like a national sport, and I soon learnt to trust no one in order not to lose total confidence in the human race,” one of them said. And explained how he had to go back to the west now and then just to keep relatively sane. I cannot verify whether this is accurate, but given the presumed knowledge we have about about the isolated country, it doesn’t seem too far-fetched. If you have been lied to about pretty much everything since you were a kid, you might have picked up the “skill” yourself and is ready to use it. A lot. A lot of the propaganda, inaccuracies and lies just do not add up, something kids may also pick up from quite an early age. This time around I saw more people, more “real” North Koreans. Of course, those that live in Pyongyang are among the fortunate few in a country known for taking care of its own elite, and not so much caring at all about the rest. There is even a three generations of punishments rule in the country, which means that you will suffer for what you grandparents may have done in the past, and not have a chance to climb the ladder of society if they did something the leadership considered bad. Ultimately that may mean that three generations will live their entire lives in prison camps. During one of many food crisises in the early 90s the government introduced the jolly slogan “Let’s eat only two meals a day.” They forgot about the small print. “Only applies to hillbilies and other rural people.” The country has a lot of farmland, but money is rather spent on military than on farming equipment and fertilizers. I was able to photograph relatively freely during both my trips to North Korea, but some guides will forbid you from photographing unless you get their explicit permission. There doesn’t seem to be a general rule, so fingers crossed you get a “nice” guide. You should visit North Korea. It will help redefine your own definition of what a country is and what it can be. An increased presence of foreign tourists can also help increase a mutual understanding of cultures and challenges as well as perhaps over time normalize the hostile and toxic relationship between the “Hermit Kingdom” and the rest of the world. But won’t going there just help fund Kim Jong-un’s nuclear developments? I rather hope that more tourists and more tourist dollars to what is essentially a very green and very beautiful country can help undermine the metal grip the government has on its people, possibly removing the need for And to be fair, North Korea the way it is now, as the odd one out, will never be a mainstream holiday destination. The only way to attract enough tourists to make a real impact on the economy is to open up and arm down. I’d recommend Kim Jong-un to make sure that he will be remembered in history as that jolly good guy who opened up his country, provided equal opportunities for his people and made North Korea amazing. Or the dude that transformed a country from a prehistoric mammoth with bad human right habits of medieval proportions to a modern fun-fair of a country with advanced liberties capable of showcasing the other UN members how much can be achieved in a short time when you start at rock-bottom. And it doesn’t have to be all that difficult, Mr. Kim. Pick up the phone and call the leader of the free world. Angela Merkel is stern, but fair and capable of listening to others. She is also likely to invite you to Germany – or neutral Switzerland where you studied – for a much nicer meal than a demeaning and cheap burger with French fries. Tell her that you are happy to meet her to discuss what it takes to stop your nuclear games. Done right, you can then become a real hero, not only in DPRK (where you control all media and information anyway), but also in South Korea, the US of A and elsewhere in the world. It would boost your economy manifold, decrease tensions in the world and could make North Korea a model society, much like you want your people to think that it is. But you would admittedly have to step down or reduce your own powers. Not much of a sacrifice to get The Nobel Peace Prize, hey? This is unlikely to happen, too much prestige has been invested from all sides. In the meantime you can visit a one of a kind country. It isn’t difficult or dangerous. But you will have to go through a travel company that works with the North Korean tourism agency. I have used Uri Tours and Korea Konsult, both of which I can recommend. There are still many others. Space Tours, for instance, which caters for Chinese tourists, surely has the best and most accurate name. You will have to pay for everything up front, your trip will then include your visa, airport pickup, transport, guides, accommodation and all meals. But bring US dollars for any extras such as drinks or souvenirs. The travel company you go for will make sure you can get your visa in less than a week, although it is recommended to book your trip several weeks in advance. Note that you won’t even have to send your passport away, a digital copy of it is sufficient. You will then get a document via email in return. Show it on the border, and you are in. Below you will find photos from my two visits to North Korea. I do apologize for the less than perfect photographic qualities. The view from The Friendship “Bridge” in Dandong, China. You can easily assume the friendship was never strong enough for the bridge to be completed, but the view is actually of Yalu River Broken Bridge. The otehr half was taken down by the Koreans. Nearly all tourists visiting North Korea are Chinese, many do so on daytrips to Sinuiju on the other side of the river. The comparison is striking. Hyper-modern skyscrapers in China to the right, nothing semi-modern in North Korea to the left. Propaganda posters hit you in the face minutes after leaving China at the railroad station in the border town of Sinuiju. The train will stop here for about an hour for customs and clearance. And yes, your bags, books and magazines will be looked through. Expect to see Kim Il-sung (left) and his son Kim Jong-il everywhere. As in EVERYWHERE. Kim Jong-il is the father of the current supreme leader, Kim Jong-Un. Rather lavish lunches were served in the restaurant car. And beer, of course. The Korean beer ran out fast and the guests had to settle for a Japanese version. Don’t expect to see too many people from the train between Dandong and Pyongyang. Yeah, everywhere. Soldiers walking to or from work. Trains are rare, which means the tracks are perfect playing places. The railroad tracks are well protected. Military posts, where they grow their own food, can be found every few kilometers. Most of the control posts were manned by young female soldiers. A modern-looking city at a distance. Going home for dinner. Don’t expect too many different colours in each village. Well, the exceptions that prove the rule, perhaps? One of the very few tractors I spotted. Then again, who can afford tractors when tanks are so much cooler? There were many home-made-looking machines here and there. With minimal imports options are limited. Which means that the country has experts in almost every field. Bikes are everywhere. Kids were swimming and having fun in most rivers that the train passed. North Korea really is a green and beautiful country. How about stopping those war-games with Trump? More people should be able to come see this. And then I was suddenly in Pyongyang, for the first time in eight years. Parts of town looks pretty modern. From a distance. New kids on the block? The view from the main library, or Grand People’s Study House, as it is officially named. Dutch tourists everywhere. The library is huge. It has reading rooms for various subjects. My best guess is that most of these books are written by local authors. There are allegedly 30 million books in the library. If you want to borrow one, it will miraculously appear on the belt next to the sole librarian. I would imagine her to be rather busy, but there was no one in line. She found time to demonstrate with 3 English books to the group tour I was on. At least there were some busy students in the library. War seems to be very important in North Korean pieces of art. There were classes too in Grand People’s Study House. These students are learning about Windows. You know, that American computer operating system. They are being taught German too. One of the Dutch tourists were fluent in the language and voluntered to take over for the teacher. I don’t think the students understood his accent. English was taught in another lecture hall. None of us were asked to contribute. Nice library, hey? Not much has changed in eight years. The last photo was from 2009. This one is from 2017. Pyongyang is never busy. This morning rush to work was pretty much as busy as it got. And rush hour is finished. The Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum is a must for any visitor to Pyongyang. NEarby you can see what may once be the world’s highest hotel. Work on The Ryugyong Hotel was started in 1987. 30 years later it looks finished from the outside, but most people doubt it will ever be completed. It is supposedly 330 meters high and consists of 105 floors. So, instead of being the world’s talles hotel, it is the world’s talles unfinished building. Still a claim to fame, hey? There are a lot of military parades in town, or at least inspired by the military. That calls for a lot of practice. Did anyone say glorification of war? Your bookshelf is not complete without these great works of literature. You can find them in the book shop in town. To go jogging is one of few ways to actually be able to get about town on foot. Your guide will most likely insist on coming along. But back in 2009 I was allowed to run on my own. Let’s just say that the guide was slightly hungover. Reflection of The Juche Tower. And the architectural award of 2017 goes to… I am sure there is a similar arch somewhere else in the world. Guess which was built first. I took this colourful photograph back in 2009. On the western coast of North Korea, just outside Nampo, 2017. Pyongyang International Airport is modern and not at all crowded. No wonder with only one flight today. #photosfromnorthkorea #DPRK #KimJongun #visitingnorthkorea #howtovisitnorthkorea #Korea #craziesttrips #KimIlSung #KimJongIl #howtotraveltonorthkorea #visatonorthkorea #travelnorthkorea #NorthKorea