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Staying Overnight in the Country with no Hotels

  • Writer: Gunnar Garfors
    Gunnar Garfors
  • Nov 27, 2017
  • 3 min read

I’ve had better sleeps, but rarely more challenging.


The country is special in more ways than one. It is totally surrounded by a city, it is smaller than all 197 others and it receives more visitors per capita than any other. It certainly helps that less than a thousand people live in the Vatican, but we are nevertheless talking about 3.9 million tourists every year. That is almost 11,000 visitors per day – to a country the size of five Pentagons. Yet, virtually none of these stay the night. Not because they don’t won’t to, there simply is no accommodation open to the public. So unless you know Pope Francis better than most or you are a head of state or similar, you will never get to stay in a bed in the Vatican. Some of those important people will be invited to stay in a Vatican guest house, but normal people like you and I aren’t able to book a holiday there.

Thanks for lending me that blanket, SAS!


So, what is the travel hack to legally stay overnight in the Pope’s den? You have to accept a total lack of facilities and not mind sleeping directly on a marble floor. Unless you are clever and bring your own mattress or piece of cardboard, that is. It isn’t illegal to be homeless, and the guards of the Vatican will not kick you out. Unless you unsuccessfully try to hide inside the fences that is. Outside the outer fence, measuring less than a meter in height, you will be left alone by security. Then again, you will not have much space at your disposal, Italy is only 1-3 meters away, depending on where you set up your temporary “bed”. Some people have also managed to hide inside buildings or the Vatican garden, but you’re then trespassing and technically breaking the law. Which would make your entire country visit void, according to many country collector clubs. The Vatican is officially closed between 23:00 and 07:00. You can easily enter between those hours, thanks to the low fence, but you may then be told to leave on short notice. Both the Swiss Guard and Italian police patrol the premises.

I stayed overnight in the Vatican in late November, and it sure was freezing! Six layers and a plane blanket borrowed from Scandinavian Airlines just about helped me cope throughout the night, I even managed to get some sleep. Although in the morning it took me a few good hours to regain normal body temperature. How I avoided third degree pneumonia is beyond belief.

In the middle of the night, one of the guards actually came over and greeted me. I guess the Swiss Guard recognizes a newcomer when he sees one. There were a few homeless people sleeping next to the fence, just like me, but to them it seemed routine. And the guards probably knew all about them. So, did this experience make me a homeless, or a hobo, as someone called me? I was, but by choice. That makes me lucky and privileged.

But why? The nearest hotel is less than 10 meters away from the Vatican. Well, if something seems impossible, it poses a challenge. It’s like managing to find a beer in a dry country. Or ordering meat in a vegan restaurant. I like challenges. Although this one was particularly cold.

Do note that this wasn’t my idea. I was inspired by Danish travelers Torbjørn C. Pedersen (Once Upon a Saga) and Jacob Øster (Expedition Everywhere) who have both done the same in the past.

Next time I’ll cross my fingers for an official invite to the Vatican Guest House.


13 Comments


Jiathdom Chain
Jiathdom Chain
8 hours ago

What an absolutely wild adventure! Sleeping on marble floors just to technically "stay" in the Vatican is the kind of absurd challenge I live for. Your SAS blanket survival strategy deserves its own medal. This reminds me of the creative problem-solving you need in Retro Bowl — sometimes you just gotta work with what you've got and call the unexpected play!

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happyfrog731178
May 29

This was a surprisingly useful post. The writing style makes it easy to stay focused from beginning to end. This is one of those articles that keeps your attention because the information is presented so well. A lot of websites publish similar topics, but very few manage to make them feel practical and relevant. While looking for additional information, I recently came across https://proshtuchnyiintelekt.com/ and found several useful examples there. The practical approach makes the information much easier to apply in real life. In my opinion, more websites should publish content like this. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts.

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4zb5bsnxm
May 19

In a world where big fish eat small fish, everyone is fighting their own battle just to make a living.

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Carlson Roy
Carlson Roy
May 11

geometry dash game stands out because some stages train players to rely on instinct and repetition instead of simple reaction speed. Memorizing jumps and movements becomes part of the experience, making successful runs feel earned. That strong connection between practice and improvement gives geometry dash game amazing long-term replay value.

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74oqth6gi
Apr 07

The most stunning part of a hotel-less night is the Golden Hour transitioning into the Blue Hour. You can replicate this in your edits by using a multi-stop linear gradient—starting with a deep burnt orange, fading into a dusty lavender, and ending in a rich navy blue.

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