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Yemen is the world’s least visited country. This is from the coastal city of Aden. Photo: Lexie Alford. My book about the world’s 20 least visited countries is due out in Norwegian on April 25. If you would like to read it in other languages, please ask a local publisher in your country to contact my literary agent, Northern Stories. Parts of the book have already been translated to English and are available for review. #Elsewhere

Gunnar Garfors unsuccessfully trying to negotiate with a camel outside Aden, Yemen. Photo by Lexie Alford. I often speak about travel at various events and conferences, and I love it. To share experiences and to engage with anyone from avid female travellers that explore Africa on their own to grandfathers who never left their own county inspires and motivates me. I am however usually one of several speakers, while the event is typically paid for by a company. But recently I was asked to hold travel presentations to a paying audience. People will in other words have to buy a ticket for no other reason than just to hear me speak. Scary as hell. Then again, easy is boring. I will speak in Trondheim on May 23 and in Nøtterøy on June 3. Maybe I will inspire you to travel somewhere you haven’t visited yet. Or maybe you are happy that I travel on your behalf. The mini tour may be expanded if anyone but my immediate family turns up. Then again, none of them live nearby any of these locations. Beating my all-time low attendance is luckily virtually impossible. I have spoken at over a hundred events, with audience figures ranging from 1 to 1,200. Tickets are available via conference organizers Atikko. Do note that these presentations will be held in Norwegian. To book Gunnar Garfors for a presentation on travel, please get in touch with Athenas or contact him directly. #Athenas #Atikko

The last country I visited. Can you guess which one? In my first book, How I Ran Out of Countries, I provided a list where travellers can tick off countries they have visited. Several people have asked me where they can find this list, to print out. Here you go: English. Portuguese (translated by Brazilian Professor Tati Luft, thank you!). #countrylist #listofcountries

Afghanistan is at war, be careful when visiting. I last wrote a post about the most difficult countries to visit for a tourist in 2013, but the world sure changes fast, so it is time for an update. I have in the meantime finished visited every country in the world twice, and I have never used a visa agency to do the dirty work for me. Easy is boring. And expensive. What constitutes a hard country to visit depends on several things: Some of my passports. Your passport: Some passports are much better than others. And let’s face it, just having a passport is a luxury. Most people don’t. I have a Norwegian passport, which is luckily for me one of the strongest. Your budget: With too little money many countries are off limits. This goes without saying, but it is clearly easy to forget how lucky many of us are. I have observed a lot of people bragging about their recent country conquests to others that simply cannot afford it. That doesn’t mean that they don’t want to or that they are less of a traveller than you. Logistics: There is always a train, an old Norwegian saying goes. These days there is always a plane. Or is there? Six countries do not have airports, and the least connected country in the world, Tuvalu, can only be visited by air 3 or 4 days a week (depending on the season). Security: War, conflict or recent terror attacks may scara away any of us. Often tourist visas aren’t even issued, but some foolish people (myself included) still go for it. My excuse? I was writing a book about the world’s 20 least visited countries, which involves a handful with security issues. The visa situation: This can be a showstopper for some people, regardless of their passport or bank account. In reality only the last two really matter, for persistent travellers, and I have therefore focused on those. Even Tuvalu with its very limited flights can easily be visited with a bit of planning, and sometimes patience as tropical storms may ground the propeller planes for weeks. Anyone, regardless of passport, will be allowed to enter thanks to the country’s generous visa policy. And still, only 800 tourists a year take advantage. I guess the country isn’t great at marketing itself. There is also only one hotel (plus a lot of guesthouses). Let’s cut to the chase. I have listed the countries in alphabetical order. But if your goal is to visit every country in the world, please do not leave all these until last as that will probably wear you out, in visa frustration. When that is said, do not visit them first either. I recommend you to accumulate quite a bit of travel experience before visiting these. They are the hardest countries to visit for a reason. Afghanistan: The capital Kabul is a war zone, and you should know someone there if you plan a visit. I recommend you to visit the province of Bamiyan (get a domestic flights from Kabul where you just transit). Bamiyan is the touristy part of the country with hundreds of thousands of local tourists a year. The hospitality in Afghanistan is amazing. I was invited to have lunch with these guys in a plumber’s shop. Algeria: Most of the country is safe to visit, but there are some dodgy regions in the south. Getting a visa usually takes three weeks. Why so hard, then? You can as a general rule only get the visa in your country of residence. The best way to explore Algiers is by foot. Central African Republic (CAR): There are 12 000 UN troops in Bangui, which is therefore rather safe. You shouldn’t venture outside the city without consulting locals first, though. You will get your visa in a day in a neighbouring country. Desiré showed me around his country, Central African Republic. Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC): I unsuccessfully tried to get a visa in several African embassies, but finally struck gold in Benin. It only took me 60 mins to get my visa in Cotonou. Just be aware that there is a lot of fighting around the country, you shouldn’t leave Kinshasa or Goma without a local guide. I am in the Deomcratic Republic of the Congo, by the Congo River with Congo Brazzaville in the background. #congoedout Eritrea: The situation is likely to improve shortly as the 20 year long war with Ethiopia has finally ended and the borders have been opened. All thanks to Ethiopia’s new young and progressively thinking prime minister, Abiy Ahmed who took the initiative to end the war. Getting a visa can still be a bit tricky, though. Apply at your nearest embassy eight weeks or more before your trip. No embassy in your country? Then Tekeste is your man, he might even be able to sort you out with a visa on arrival. Is it a plane? Is it a bird? No, it is the Fiat Tagliero building in Asmara, Eritrea. Equatorial Guinea: People with a US passport are the only ones in the world that can visit the country without a visa. The rest of us will likely face some difficulties. I tried almost every EG embassy in Africa, without success. In the end, I managed to get my visa much closer to home. I went to the embassy in London (the one in Berlin should also be quite helpful), just be aware that you need to provide proof of funds (over 2000 british pounds in your bank account) and a letter from the police saying that you are not a recent criminal. The island of Bioko in Equatorial Guinea is exceptionally green and fertile, in large parts due to exceptional amounts of rain. Iraq: Visiting Erbil or Sulaymaniyah is safe and hassle free, you will get a visa on arrival. It’s part of Kurdistan, but also part of Iraq. The security situation in Baghdad has also improved a lot, but getting a visa can take a lot of time. It took my three weeks in Oslo, but one of my friends got a tourist visa in a day in Amman, Jordan. Shopping in Erbil, Iraq. Libya: The country doesn’t issue tourist visas. There is a loophole, though. Sherwes Travel can get you in on a business visa, and provide you with a guide and driver. But it won’t come cheap. Libya is currently off-limt for tourists, but there is a loophole. Nauru: The only country in the Pacific which can be a hassle. That is primarily due to the Australian refugee camp on the island. The country got so tired of journalists that came only to write negative news reports, that they slapped a fee of 8000 Australian dollars on all visa applications by media professionals. And that was just a processing fee which didn’t guarantee a visa (it actually probably virtually guaranteed that you wouldn’t get a visa). Most journalists therefore started applying as tourists, which make immigartion officers in Nauru very suspicious of any applicant (no surprise with only 120 tourists a year). That slowed down the process for everyone. I’d recommend you to apply at least 8 weeks before you plan on going – via email, more if you actually are a journalists (even if you are in fact going on holiday). In such a small island nation as Nauru, swimming is not surprisingly a favourite pass time activity. Nigeria: Prosessing time for a visa is about a week, but you can only apply at the embassy in the country you live in. An option is to get a transit visa on arrival, if you have less than 48 hours between flights. Remember to bring passport photos and cash, though. It is quite sad, but all sorts of dead animals are for sale in Nigerian markets. Russia: Oh, the bureaucracy. Just make sure your application is filled out correctly, and that everything on the form has been answered. It is otherwise unlikely to be processed at all. Something they won’t bother telling you until you return to pick up what should have been your visa. Gotta love a good, old Lada Niva. Saudi Arabia: The country has finally started issuing tourist visas to citizens from many nations, but still only for certain events. Check out Sharek for a list of events and to apply for your evisa. You should get your visa in a day or two, Both men and woman are elegible. In front of Kingdom Tower in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. Somalia: The country is not hard to visit if you are happy to go to Somaliland or Puntland, two self-declared states. Neither is however acknowledged by any UN country, so they are still formally part of Somalia. Flying into Hargaisa, the capital of Somaliland, is safe and easy (although you need a visa which you get in a day at their “tourist offices” in Addis Abeba, Djibouti or London). To visit the rest of the country, you will need to use a travel agency that provides you with a guide, a driver and armed security guards that will ride on the back of your pickup truck. For Somalia, I recommend using travel company Visit Mogadishu. On their way to the fishmarket in Mogadishu, Somalia. South Sudan: The country doesn’t normally issue tourist visas, and you will get a letter of invitation from a company in the country. They used to accept a letter from your hotel, but recent reports indicate that that is no longer the case. The embassy in Kampala, Uganda is allegedly your best bet. I managed to get a press visa in Oslo, Norway in two weeks, but they required a letter from my employer and a letter from my hotel in Juba. Outboard engine repairmen in Juba, South Sudan. Sudan: Not particularly tricky, but rather slow. Apply at least 4-5 weeks before your trip. Four wise men in Sudan. Syria: Getting a visa to Syria will set you back a bit of money, as you need help from a travel company on the inside. You should stay within Damascus and Aleppo unless you have a guide. I recently wrote this piece: How to visit Syria. Playing above the streets in Damascus. Turkmenistan: This country can be a walk in the park to visit, or difficult as hell. The reason? A travel company will have to sort out your itinerary and have a guide pick you up in the airport or on the border. In order for you to get that far, they must also provide you with a letter of inviation (LOI) that enables you to get your visa on arrival. The problem is that only the Ministry of Tourism can issue such letters. Unfortunately, 20-30 percent of tourists will not get this LOI, and neither the travel company nor you will be informed about why. The solution is often to apply the next calendar year, some speculate that there are tourist quotas for each country per year. I was rejected 6 times in 2018, but I finally managed to find a loophole. Most women in Turkmenistan wear traditional dresses while at work. Yemen: Demand has exploded since I visited Aden in April, so the fixer I used now charges quite a lot per day and he only accepts media personell. A loophole is to travel to Oman (but get a multi entry visa to Oman or you won’t be let back in) and then make your way to the border. The easternmost province of Yemen is safe, and you will reportedly get in by paying the border police 100USD for a visa. The island of Socotra is another option, if you have your own yacht, or if you don’t mind hitch-hiking with a cement boat from Oman. Not the kind of image you’d normally associate with Yemen. But what about…? Keep in mind that visa requirements can change on a minute’s notice, so please check with an embassy or ask at a travel forum online if in doubt. Secondly, there are other countries that many think are tricky to visit, but that aren’t. I have listed those that I can think of below alphabetically. Angola: They now offer evisas (although the website has been known to be down, on occasion). Bhutan: You will not be allowed to enter without a guide, which means that your entire trip must be paid for in full before you arrive. Go through a local travel agency, they will sort out everything for you as soon as you have paid (250-350USD per day depending on the season, including everything except drinks and souvenirs). Burundi: It is easy to get a visa from the embassy in London. The embassy in Berlin is a bit harsher. Embassies in Burundi’s neighbouring countries can also help. Chad: N’Djamena is a pretty safe city, just do not photograph without ensuring permission first. I got my visa at the embassy in Ivory Coast in 45 mins. It is allegedly also fast in Berlin. Cuba: Most embassies issue tourist visas in 15 minutes. Just be aware that you will not be allowed to fly from the US, unless you have a US passport. Iran: Visa on arrival or evisa for most countries. Citizens of the US and the UK will however have to apply for visas in the old facioned way, at an embassy. Ivory Coast: No problem, apply for an evisa. Liberia: Most visitors can get a visa on arrival, but police officers are likely to charge you exorbitant fees for it. There are plans to introduce evisas in 2019. Mauritania: You’ll get a visa on arrival, whether arriving by air or at a land border crossing. Niger: Getting a visa in a neighbouring country is rather straight-forward, and should take only 24 or 48 hours. North Korea: You need to go through a travel company that cooperates with the North Korean tourism ministry, but that is an easy and straightforward process. Be aware that you will not be allowed to go anywhere without your two government guides. The one exception is on the train from China to Pyongyang (or vice-versa), where you will be left guide-free. The travel company will sort your visa out for you, typically in less than a week. I still recommend to apply 6-8 weeks in advance as tours tend to fill up (you can also travel on your own or as a couple, still with a guide of course, but that will typically cost more). Pakistan: Not very difficult, unless you try to apply at any other embassy than the one in the country you reside in. They will in that case refuse to even consider your application. Sierra Leone: You can easily get an evisa. Venezuela: Caracas is a bit dodgy these days, I’d go elsewhere unless you know someone there. Most western countries get a visa on arrival, although people with US passports have more of a difficult time. Try your nearest consulate in the US, but expect a processing time of 3-4 weeks. Do note that I cannot guarantee that the situation hasn’t changed since I revisited most of these in 2017/2018. Visa knowledge is best served fresh. #difficultvisas #mostdifficulttrips #passport #visaexpert #strongpassports #difficultcountries #bucketlist #challengingcountries #hardcountriestovisit #extremetraveltip

My second trip to Estonia, 15 years after the first. The last two years I have visited the 20 least-visited countries on the planet. And many others. Primarily to research my next book which is due in April 2019, but  during research I realized that no country deserves to be visited only once. So I decided to visit every country in the world, all 198, for a second time. I finished on December 16, when I landed in Tallinn, Estonia after a little bit of a world-tour to ten countries on three continents in three weeks. No one else has visited every country twice, making this my tenth travel related world record. But that was never the motivation. To return and see the countries with new eyes has given me so much, it is hard to describe. I met people with incredible stories, saw jawdropping sites and sceneries and found myself left with countless unforgettable experiences. What perhaps made the strongest impression was the amount of development from my first visits. On average I have spent a week in each country, and I have stayed the night in all of them, even in the hotelless Vatican. There I slept on the ground, directly on the marble. One of the Swiss guards wondered why I was laying there, shivering. It was a spur of the moment idea, so I didn’t have enough clothes, only an airline blanket, so I was freezing like a camel in Antarctica. I returned the blanket to the airline, by the way. Thank you, SAS! So, does visiting every country two times make me the most travelled person in the world? Not by any means. There are tribes and nomadic people that travel all their lives in parts of Africa and Asia. Then there are individuals like Heinz Stücke from Germany who has biked around the world since 1962, 13 years before I was born. And fellow Viking Thor C. Pedersen is undertaking a mad journey, determined to visit every country in the world without at all flying. He hasn’t even returned home in five years, but luckily his fiancee has visited him 17 times so far. But not returning home is difficult for other reasons too. Believe me, getting visas to some countries elsewhere than at home can be a real hassle, and is in some instances virtually impossible. Dressed like a Norwegian, in Kyrgyzstan. Let me also mention Harry Mitsidis who claims to have visited 1169 of 1281 “zones” as defined by Nomad Mania, a website run by himself. There are furthermore allegedly around 150 people who have visited the 193 UN countries, some of them travel full-time and can for sure be considered relatively well-travelled. Then again, if their last visit to any given country was 20 years or a generation ago, one can always argue that they have no idea what the country is currently like. And sadly, quite a few people who are obsessed with counting countries have only stayed in some (or many) of them for no longer than a few hours, perhaps even only in the airport. To get all the stamps in your passport doesn’t necessarily make you an experienced traveller, although you can pretty confidently claim to be good at logistics. If you haven’t experienced and explored a destination and engaged with some of those who live there, I don’t really see the point of going there in the first place. Unfortunately too many people travel with and hang around only fellow travellers, usually westerners. The only locals they engage with are receptionists and waiters, perhaps sometimes a guide. They will still see the places they go to, of course, but have they really experienced them and learnt something? So, if visiting “everywhere” twice hasn’t even made me the most travelled person in the world. What was then the point? There is nothing quite like travel. That sensation you get when you see, smell, feel, taste or discover something new. Or when you come back to a place and realize that something has changed from your last visit. Until perhaps you come to the conclusion that nothing has changed as much as yourself. To not to travel would be an insult to my mind. That doesn’t mean that everyone share my passion, or obsession. Some people find no greater pleasure than staying at home, and there is of course nothing wrong with them or their minds. There are also millions – no, billions – of people who would like to travel but who do not have the money, the passport or the blessing of living in a country which is happy to see its citizens boost creativity levels by going abroad, or by travelling outside of their own region. I am extremely lucky for having a strong passport, for living in a democracy with decent holidays and for having a job that pays well enough to allow me to spend most of what I make on jetfuel, hotels and bus tickets. Every visit to a new place – whether countryside, city or country – makes me see something new, meet someone new and learn something new about the place. And about myself. How do I count visiting a country twice? Can I for instance go back and forth between two countries to count them several times? Not in my opinion. I do first of all only count “real” visits, meaning that I must have done something in the country and have a story to tell in order to count a visit. That doesn’t necessarily mean staying the night (although definitely recommended for so many reasons), but at least leaving the airport or the train station. Most return visits have happened years after the first one, and none of my second visits have happened without at least one night in another country in between. Why 198 countries? There are 193 UN countries in the world, 2 UN observers (Palestine and the Vatican) and 3 countries that have been acknowledged by at least 10 UN countries (Kosovo, Taiwan and Western Sahara), totalling 198. The newest country in the world is South Sudan which gained independence July 9, 2011. No complete visits to all 198 countries can therefore have happened before then. I finished my first visit to every country in May 2013. Will I visit every country a third time? Definitely not! Not without a sponsor. I’m not that innocent. Tuvalu is only 26 square kilometers in size. #all198countriestwotimes #everycountrytwice #everycountrytwice #everywheretwice #everycountryintheworld #everycountrytwotimes #theworldtwice

On the river bank in Asunción, the capital of Paraguay. After two years of research I have finally finished my book about the world’s 20 least visited countries (titled ‘Nowhere’ and available to preorder in Norwegian, to be released in April). Returning to all of them for research gave me so much. I met people with incredible stories, saw jawdropping sites and sceneries and am now left with countless non-forgettable experiences. It may not come as much of a surprise that I also noticed vast amounts of changes from my first visits. That made me realize that no country deserves to be visited only once, and I decided to revisit every country in the world. Another reason to do it is that people and places change, just like your hometown and the country you live in. That I have been in a country 15-20 years ago doesn’t exactly make me an expert on it anymore, if it ever did. The changes have been too substantial. Stories and experiences luckily last forever, relevant travel know-how from around the world does not. I am currently writing this in Paraguay, which means that I have now visited over 95 percent of all the countries at least twice, with only a few ones remaining. Follow my quest to finalize the second round of the worlds countries on Instagram or Twitter and find out whether I will in fact be successful. Some visas are trickier than others, let’s say, and both bureaucracy and cancelled flights have hampered countless travel plans before… Regardless of progress, I’ll publish photos every day on social media, using #everycountrytwice. Wish me luck… #allcountriesintheworldtwotimes #everycountrytwice #everycountrytwice #paraguay

Creative Commons photo by Villamania. Italy isn’t very exotic, I thought. Don’t get me wrong, I have visited many times and I love the sceneries, the people and the food. And the wines aren’t too bad, with the possible exception of prosecco (I am not a big fan of sparkling wines made by the Charmat method). But exotic? It’s just Italy. It’s just down the road from Oslo. I mean, Northern Norway is further away the Norwegian capital than Italy. Just a detail I photographed in Apricale. But tiny Apricale sure proved me wrong. The mountain village in Liguria in Western Italy is a bit hidden on a narrow and winding mountain road 15 kilometers from the coast and a little bit less from France. The almost 600 people live in brick houses built literally on all sides of the top of a hill, almost 300 meters above sea level. It’s beautiful, no wonder that artists from around the world love it here. That includes Jorunn Mulen, my favourite artist (I have five of her paintings at home). And let me add a disclaimer, she is a friend of mine and we studied at the same college, Falmouth College of Arts, in the UK. You cannot drive around Apricale, the alleyways are prohibitively narrow and steep for motorized vehicles. Which makes the village much more fun and interesting to explore by foot. Bring a camera. And chill in one of the small restaurants and bars in the village. Of course they are small, in Apricale everything is. Except the villagers’ hearts. Expect the warmest hospitality. Jorunn is coincidentally opening a new exhibition 180 kilometers away, in Genova, and a lot of her work has been produced or thought out in Apricale, or has been inspired by people she has met in the village over the years. “My exhibition is about parts of Daniele Noel Roux’s love story, and I met her in this very magical hilltop village,” Jorunn explains. Daniele who? Daniele in the 1960s. Archived photo copyrighted by Terence Donovan. They met each other in Apricale and never looked back. Daniele lives and works in St. Paul De Vence in France where she and her husband Francois Roux runs the legendary hotel La Colombe D´Or. I suppose having had artists like Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Calder and Cecar stay makes a hotel legendary. They visited in the 1940’s and 50’s when Daniele’s grandfather in law was hotelier. It is still a meeting place for artists and thinkers, groovers and shakers of the art world. Out of my budget, in other words. Daniele was only 13 years old when she met her first love on the French Riviera in the 1950s. Her mother, a strictly catholic, unfortunately witnessed Daniele holding hands with a young man, and decided to send Daniele to convent school in England to put a stop to this forbidden young love. Daniele, quite a rebel, was soon evicted from school. Why? She had convinced all her fellow pupils to have their hair cut short, like Daniele’s. By Daniele. She finished school elsewhere and went on to study in Oxford. On a trip to London she was stopped on the street by famous photographer Terence Donovan, and years of modelling and acting followed. “My exhibition isn’t only inspired by Apricale, but also by conversations with Daniele and fragments of the love letters that she received from her first love. She told me about them and some of what they contained,” Jorunn explains. What about the title of the exhibition? Will I ever have enough blood to make your dreams blush? “That was something Daniele’s first love wrote to her in a letter a few years after they first met, when they were no longer together. They just had to finish their story,” Jorunn explains. The exhibition is showing December 6 – February 15 in Genova. See below for the poster. Jorunn Mulen in Colombe D’Or trying to decide on what to drink. I mean, she’s an artist. One of Jorunn Mulen’s paintings. She sells a lot in the US, Italy, the UK and Norway. Daniele a bit more recently. In Apricale, of course. Postcards, some of which feature Daniele. In Jorunn’s studio in Bergen, Norway. The exhibition poster. Jorunn and I. In Apricale, of course. Photo: Caroline Seville. Apricale just before dusk. And a few hours earlier. The main square. Yes, it is a tiny village. I told you the alleyways were narrow. #DanieleNoelRoux #Apricale #artistvillage #JorunnMulen #Italy

You can buy a gift certificate like this, to put under the Christmas tree, or preorder the book for yourself. Preorders qualify for a 15 % discount, and free delivery via the post. Hurrah, my book about the world’s 20 least visited countries is finally finished! It is the first time someone has researched which these countries are. UNWTO publishes a list about tourist figures per country every year, but it lacks the numbers from the least visited ones. I have previously written about the 20 countries, in the book that is now available I go much more in depth and try to give you perspectives you have never heard through the media. It is now available to preorder in Norwegian, on quality publisher Skald. Due to six visa denials to one of the countries, we were unfortunately not able to finalize everything in time for Christmas, as intended. You can still buy a gift certificate to a Norwegian friend who will then receive it in the post as soon as it is available from the printing house in April 2019. I have not yet signed a deal for the English version, or in other languages, please shout out if you are interested or know someone who might be. My first book, ‘How I Ran Out of Countries‘, sold 2,000 copies in Norwegian and 10,000 in English. The name of my second book in Norwegian is ‘Ingenstad’, or ‘Elsewhere’ which it is called in English. Literary agent Northern Stories represents the book abroad. #Nowhere #GunnarGarforsbook #Ingenstad #Yemen #Worldsleatsvisistedcountry

The Damascus delivery dude. I met him several times around the old city. Last week I went on holiday. To Syria. It is the 31st least-visited country in the world, with 90,000 tourists per year, although few of those are from outside the Middle East. No wonder, the country may not be the most natural or appealing holiday destination to most people. Both Damascus and Aleppo are however now safe to visit, either alone or with a guide. I felt totally comfortable and secure and had a great time among smiling and very accommodating people. You can fly into Damascus from several cities, including Kuwait, Amman and Baghdad. Cham Airways is your best bet, although Syrian Air and Fly Damas also operate. The connections from Norway were not very good, so I rather took a taxi from Beirut airport to Damascus. We left just after midnight. “How long time will it take to get there?” I asked. “One, two or three hours. Just let me know and I will drive accordingly,” Maataz joked. Sort of. I asked him to get me to Damascus fast, and he certainly did. The 50 year old drove like a fighter pilot on acid, and we arrived at my hotel only 1 hour and 40 minutes later. That included several stops at security checkpoints in both countries and the usual formalities while crossing the border. Normally you should calculate around three hours for the trip, sometimes four hours if traffic is bad. I paid 110 USD, but I have heard about people paying everything from 90 to 250. The bus or a shared taxi is naturally much cheaper. The Syria-Jordan border has been closed for quite some time, but there are rumours that it will reopen soon. Western credit or debit cards are not widely accepted, so bring enough USD or Euro to pay for everything you need during your stay, including accommodation. There are ATMs, but they only work with local cards. You will also need local cash (Syrian pounds) to pay for small things, exchange in a bank or settle for a poorer exchange rate in your hotel. Do note that you will need 2,500 Syrian pounds (5 USD) upon leaving the country. Why? To pay for the exit form and for an official to stamp it. I stayed in the Syrian capital for three days, and I was surprised at the lively nightlife. Syrians know how to party! Who would have thought? There are around 50 bars, lounges, roof terraces and nightclubs by Straight Street alone, and the Syrians sure know how to party. Thursday is the big night out here, although Friday is also pretty good and Saturday is decent. You will however find bars that are open any night, and Marine Music Bar even has live music seven nights a week. This band performed rock music brilliantly. Or have a tea or a hookah pipe at one of the many cafés. And you can of course not leave town without having shawarma, falafel, manakeesh (Syrian “pizza”) and camel kebab. The Old City is an intriguing and lively labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways. And there is a lot of history here. We are talking about a city that is between 10,000 and 12,000 years old, which makes it the world’s oldest continuously inhabited city. Soaking up the atmosphere in the souq. You cannot visit Damascus without exploring the Souq al-Hamidiyya, a huge market with hundreds of small shops. The streets are for pedestrians only, and are covered by a roof to protect people from the sun. You can get anything from spices, leather and food to utensils, souvenirs and clothes. I love walking around and just inhaling the smells of cumin, cinnamon, pepper, nutmeg and cloves. Spices for every taste. But how get you get access to this facinating country? You will need to register with immigration authorities in advance, a slow and bureaucratic process at any embassy or consulate. I tried to send my application to the Syrian embassy in Stockholm, but they later called and told me thay I would have to show up in person for an interview and that the application process would take at least 2-3 weeks. But it turned out that there is a much faster way, although at a cost. For 300 USD you will get a registration with the immigration department. It is valid for 3 months. The process will take one week, usually less. I actually had my visa in 36 hours. How? Basel Alhasan is your man. I met him for a meal and a few drinks in Damascus. The 40 year old has been to over 60 countries, and he is very well connected in Syria. You have to be in order to navigate all the red tape around here. He is the CEO of Travel King, a tour operator in Damascus. The only drawback is that you can only pay via Western Union. Do note that you will also need to pay for the visa itself on the border. I paid 72 USD for that, but the price depends on which passport you have. You will not be able to buy the visa unless you are registered in the system of the immigration department. Travel King also offers guided tours, transport, flight tickets and hotel bookings. For many areas in Syria, having a guide is highly recommended for security purposes and often necessary in order to get the needed permits. The best way to contact Basel is via email (basel(a)travelking-sy.com) or Whatsapp (+963 936 194 494). Say hi from me. Or if Syria is a bit too hardcore for you, you can at least see some of the photos I took on my last visit below. New kids on the block. Backgammon is a popular game on the streets of Damascus. The square in front of the Umayyad Mosque is a playground for pigeons. Fancy a necklace? Assad and Putin are popular figures on souvenirs in Syria. There is no way you can move fast through the souq when it is at its busiest. Plates for any dish. Who the hell needs American Express anyway? Are you nuts? You don’t master the art of parking until you have done it without incident in Damascus. No elevators here. Mosques are plentiful in Syria. A heartbreaking drawing I came across outside a school. Propaganda posters in favour of Assad are “everywhere”. Some are more tasteful than others. Syrian seem like a very patriotic country. Flags in one form or another surround you. Exploring the Old City. #hottovisitsyria #Lebanon #Syria #Beirut #MiddleEast #Damascus

The main road around the country runs through Nauru airport, and is closed everytime an aircraft lands Which isnæt all that often, but still. I just stumbled across an article from June, based on a list claiming to list the world’s 20 worst airports. It made me laugh. First of all, the ranking only measures three criteria, on a scale from 1 to 10: Service, on-time performance and passenger sentiment. The overall score is an average of those three. But what happened to other criteria such as perceived security, transport to/from the airport, level of corruption, number of security checkpoints, level of bureaucracy, availability of wi-fi and average waiting times? Just to pick a few random criteria, I mean. After travelling to approximately 400 airports I should have an idea of what a decent airport feels like. And of course, it turned out that Airhelp, the company behind this ranking, only ranked 141 airports. No wonder that 17 of the 20 worst airports in the world are in Europe, the world’s wealthiest continent. What the hell happened to Juba airport, which doesn’t have a terminal building – only a tent, or rather a bunch of semi-connected tarpaulin? Or Toussaint Louverture International Airport in Port-au-Prince, Haiti, where being able to actually successfully check-in calls for a major celebration, the only problem is that there is nowhere to buy anything liquid to toast with. And let me not forget Kabul, where you will have to go through 9 security check points, several of which are manned by greedy and unfazed personell that will ask for cash, and sometimes demand it, before letting you pass. Then again, at least you can get a coffee at Hamid Karzai International Airport. Don’t get me started, there are dozens and dozens and dozens of worse airports than Arlanda, Boryspil and Stansted out there. Very few of them are in Europe. Many of them are in Africa, Asia and Oceania, at least one is in Antarctica, all continents Airhelp might not even have heard about. And I don’t mind that a company goes all-in to try get some world-wide PR, but come on! In order to rate the world’s worst airports you might want to have a closer look at a bit more than under 1 percent of the world’s 18,000 or so airports. It’s like naming the world’s best cities without even having visited London, Seoul or Tromsø, or listing the world’s biggest countries but forgetting Russia, Canada and China. I guess it is all about finding you niche ranking. But please, do a proper job while at it. At least I visited every single country in the world to find out which one has the fewest tourists. Hell, I even ranked all 198 countries. Nevertheless, here’s the outrageously casually researched list from Airhelp. Without a single airport in Africa, South America, Antarctica, Sout East Asia or Oceania. Enjoy. Just don’t believe a word of it. 20. Geneva Airport, Geneva, Switzerland – 6.7 19. London Gatwick Airport, London, UK – 6.66 18. Stockholm Arlanda Airport, Stockholm, Sweden – 6.62 17. Reykjavik Keflavik International Airport, Reykjavik, Iceland – 6.61 16. Toronto Lester B Pearson International Airport, Toronto, Canada – 6.59 15. John Paul II International Airport Krakow–Balice, Krakow, Poland – 6.56 14. Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, Paris, France – 6.56 13. Berlin Schonefeld Airport, Berlin, Germany – 6.48 12. Moscow Domodedovo Airport, Moscow, Russian Federation – 6.46 11. Newark Liberty International Airport, New York, USA – 6.4 10. Eindhoven Airport, Eindhoven, Netherlands – 6.39 9. Bordeaux-Merignac Airport, Bodreaux, France – 6.37 8. Edinburgh Airport, Edinburgh, Scotland – 6.29 7. Boryspil International Airport, Kieve, Ukraine – 6.03 6. Manchester Airport, Manchester, UK – 5.95 5. Stockholm Bromma Airport, Stockholm, Sweden – 5.91 4. Paris Orly Airport, Paris, France – 5.83 3. Lyon-Saint Exupery Airport, Lyon, France – 5.78 2. London Stansted Airport, London, UK – 5.53 1. Kuwait International Airport, Kuwait – 5.40 Kuwait airport is the worst? That is bollocks. You even get decent coffee, free wifi (in the arrival hall) and visa on arrival there. #airports #worldsworstairports #badairports #badlists #awfulairports

Over Kabul in Afghanistan. I have noticed a clear tendency lately; More and more people want to run out of countries. They do, in other words, want to visit every country out there. I did so myself in 2013, and ever since I have been contacted by people that are doing the same. Often they want advice on routing, visa issues or travel tips in general. New figures! World’s Least-Touristy Countries 2018 An estimated 120-150 people have visited every country the world, given that “every country” refers to the 193 UN countries. Then again, not to count UN observers The Vatican or Palestine feels very odd, so most travellers aim for 195 countries. Leaving out Kosovo, Taiwan and Western Sahara, all of which are acknowledged as states by a dozen or more UN members, cannot be done in good conscience either – which brings the country count up to 198. I really think travelling extensively is a good thing. Because nothing opens eyes to other people, ways of life and mindsets like travelling. And I refuse to let fear stop me from roaming this world, seeking experiences and learning to know, understand and appreciate cultures different to my own. Travel generates a mutual understanding like no other method known to mankind. In between individuals, cultures, nations, religions and faiths. I truly believe that this world will be a better place if more people travel, interact with each other and are open to thoughts different to their own. That can only lead to more respect, more friendship and more mutual laughter. Here I have gathered answers to some of the most usual questions from people who are travelling hard to run out of countries. 1. Decide on your goal. In my opinion there are 198 countries, but many are happy with the 193 UN nations. Other people go by the nations listed by FIFA (211) or IOC (206). Then there are some clubs that rather count territories such as Travelers’ Century Club (327), Most Traveled People (874) and Nomad Mania  (1281). You will regardless have to pick your list in order to be able to run out of countries. Although you can of course run out of one after another, although you will save a lot of time and money if you plan everything from the start. 2. Do leave the airport, railway station or bus. You can argue that you have sort of technically been in a country even if you only transit through an airport or a railway station or drive through it in a car or a bus. Some people even count an airport transit even if they haven’t left the airport. Guinness World Records unfortunately let people merely cross a land border with ts little as a toe, which ridicules the concept of travel (but which makes it possible even for South Koreans to “travel” to otherwise closed North Korea). You will, as an absolute minimum, have received a stamp or gone through customs in order to legally have been to a country. But seriously, for all of the above ways of “visiting”, what is the point? I thought you wanted to explore the world and contribute to a common understanding of other people and the world. Then again, this doesn’t really apply if you are collecting passport stamps only, not experiences. If you do, please don’t call it travel. Call it logistics. 3. Stay at least 24 hours. This is, as this entire article, merely a recommendation. I have myself counted day trips as visits, but later regretted staying for such a short period and decided to revisit the few countries I had not stayed overnight in (I have now slept in every country). Again, I want to get a proper taste and a real impression of a country and its people. Even 24 hours is short for that, but it sure as hell beats 90 minutes. I usually feel that I am getting to know a country to a certain extent after three days. 4. Make sure you have stories to tell. This is first of all for yourself, so that you feel that you have done something in a country. But also in order to have at least one experience to share from each and every country. Because, believe me, you will get questions about every country in the world. It is a bit embarrassing to only be able to tell about the duty-free shop, or the lack of one, in the airport. 5. Don’t only hang out with fellow travellers. A lot of people take gap years or travel extensively for months on end, yet they never speak to locals in the countries they visit (perhaps with the exception of check-in personell, waiters and receptionists). It is understandable as you will meet so many interesting people on your travels, and many will travel with someone 6. Go solo. I don’t necessarily mean all the time. You may after all not want to leave your better half or your friends for days or weeks, but at least for a few hours now and then. The main reason for this is that travelling in a group easily can send a signal to the rest of the world that you do not want to be disturbed. It is so much easier to get in touch with other travellers and locals when travelling on your own, even if only for an afternoon. 7. Speak to locals. They know the area you are in much better than any guidebook author. There may be language difficulties, but do not let that stop you. There will usually be someone around that can translate. If not, sign language, drawings and smiles are a pretty good start. And if the first local you approach is too shy to interact, try again with the next. 8. Don’t be a sheep, see something unusual. Yes, The Little Mermaid in Copenhagen, the pyramids in Giza and The Eiffel Tower in Paris are all nice, but not exactly original. Find somewhere more exciting and unique. There will be less or none tourists, you are much less likely to be ripped off and you will actually see something that most others haven’t. Dare be different and seek your own paths. 9. Don’t rely 100 % on guidebooks. Guidebooks can be great tools, many people will never travel anywhere without one. But think about it, that book was out of date the day after it was printed, not to mention a year, three or five later. It was also written by someone who passed through the area in a very short amount of time, someone who doesn’t necessarily share your interests. And “all” the other travellers read the same guidebook, which means that you might easily end up on a touristy path. Which again increases the likelihood of being ripped off. The restaurant owners who suddenly find herself in a popular guidebook doesn’t need to be a part-time brain surgeon to find it useful to increase prices due to increases traveller traffic. You may of course be able to afford that price hike, but locals are often less likely to do so and will go elsewhere. Which means that you will end up in a restaurant with no locals, only fellow tourists. 10. Eat local food. Come on, it is probably the most distinct part of most cultures. Just follow normal precautions to decrease the risk of food poisoning. 11. Take photographs in every country. This is probably needless to say after the “invention” of the selfie, but nevertheless. Photos are great as evidence. Not that you need to prove yourself to any greater authority (unless you are trying to break a world record), but they work brilliantly as souvenirs too and beat fridge magnets by a mile. And don’t forget to also take photos without you in them. To remember those incredible sights you will come across. 12. Travel with hand-luggage only. You will thank me forever. 13. Be humble, respectful and polite. You are only a visitor. Please do not lecture people over their beliefs, cultures or dress codes. Never forget that your country or your way of behaviour is not superiour to theirs. Shithole countries do not exist. Only shitty behaviour and shithead individuals. 14. Experience each country. I mean, you really do not want to be glued to your phone or laptop most of the time. You may of course have to rebook tickets or plan your next destination, but please don’t sacrifice all the time you have somewhere to do that. 15. Don’t plan your trip to death. You are on holiday, remember. To decide on what to do somewhere you haven’t even been yet doesn’t make much sense. Chances are the places aren’t like you expected, that prices are much lower when you get there and/or that you will receive far better recommendations of what to do by locals after you have arrived. 16. Apply for a second passport. Many countries allow this, as long as you can prove that you need it. A letter from yourself or your employer is often needed. A second passport enables you to travel even when your other passport is stuck in some consulate or ambassy for weeks, awaiting an essential visa. 17. Be aware of each country’s borders. Some avid travellers will for instance knock you if you have visited Somaliland instead of Somalia. First of all, I think you should totally ignore such badmouthing, but it is good to know about such “controversies” in advance. Somalia consists of six states, Somaliland being one of them which is normally easier to visit than the five others. Most people do for instance not require you to visit all 50 US states to say that you have been to the United States. Other “divided” countries, with areas considered “easier” to visit in brackets, include Iraq (Iraqi Kurdistan), Yemen (Socotra) and China (Hong Kong and Macau). Find out what you are comfortable with and travel accordingly. The visa situations are also often different. 18. Prioritize travel over anything else. I do not suggest that you should stop hanging with friends or family or decline taking part in other activities, but most of us will have to make sacrifices in order to afford trips to every country. To me, to travel is all about collecting experiences and sharing memories. I don’t care much for sports cars, designer clothes or famous paintings on my wall (nor can I afford them). My journeys provide me with uncountable experiences and memories. As a traveler I have also learnt to to appreciate home, however unimpressive it may be. I have been in dusty towns, on rocky roads and in salty waters and I think that I have understood why and how to smile because of the little things in life. 19. Make room for in-trip holidays. This is actually quite easy and can even save you money. You will often have to transit via a third country anyway. Stay a day or two there on your way to your original destination and do the same somewhere else on the way back home. You can then visit three countries on a holiday instead of just one. And you won’t have to wait for hours in the airport in between flights. 20. Don’t knock travel styles different to your own. Everyone is different and some people prefer to spend a week or a month in each country, whereas others are happy with daytrips. Make your own travel rules an stick with them. In other words, don’t write articles such as this one… Sunset over Tripoli, Libya. #193 #howtovisitallcountries #countrycollection #allcountriesintheworld #howtovisiteverycountryintheworld #everycountry #198

From the least visited country in the world. Which one it is? Find out further down. Photo by Lexie Alford. I have been on the road the last 18 months. And large parts of the 12 years before that. But this time around I have revisited the world’s 20 least visisted countries (and travelled to every country twice, in the process). Why on Earth? To discover new perspectives, to see new places and to meet new and old friends. And not least to research my book “Nowhere” (the Norwegian version is already available to preorder, or sign up for a notification for when the English version comes out). It turned out that there were quite a few changes from the last two times I wrote about the least touristy nations on the planet, in 2015 and in 2013. You can follow Gunnar Garfors on Instagram, Twitter or Facebook. I have also assembled tourism figures for all 198 countries in the world to create the first complete list of annual tourists to every country. My own country, Norway, is for instance the 157th least visited country in the world, with its six million annual tourists. That makes it the 42nd most visited country, if I turn the list upside down. But why would I? To visit the most visited countries out there isn’t particularly original. Find your own country here. Below I will go through the 20 least visited. That means the top (or bottom) 10 percent, as well as all countries in the world with less than 50,000 tourists per year. They are all in Africa, Asia and Oceania. Not particularly surprising. Do note that official tourist statistics do not exist for every country. That sort of makes sense. I mean, if you have virtually no tourists, why bother to hire someone to keep track? Except to make the tourism industry grow, of course. But quite a few of these countries have more urgent issues on their minds. UNs World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) publishes tourism figures for most countries every year, but numbers are non-existant or plain wrong for many of the least visited ones. Tuvalu is for instance listed as having 2,000 tourists per year, but that doesn’t add up with their 3-4 propeller weekly flights. Its Bureau of Statistics provided me with the real number for 2017: 800. Whereas Somalia wasn’t even a member of UNWTO until 2017. Other countries are still not members and some seem to deliberately inflate their numbers. I have shown this through interviews with officials, immigration officers, hotel owners and tour operators. I do not claim to present accurate statistics for every country, but I am confident that this is the best researched and only complete overview available. There are several reasons why such statistics will never be 100 percent correct. Some countries only count tourists arriving by plane, others base their numbers on what hotels report or what the visitors fill out on arrival forms. And quite a few business people say they are tourists to avoid paperwork, whereas many journalists claim the same to be able to enter at all. Ethical? Perhaps not, but for many this is the only way in if they want to cover events is regimes that dislike a free press. A number of countries also only estimate their numbers. Then again, they might not have a choice if the majority of arrivals do not have to register at the borders, as is the case within the Schengen area in Europe. Another reason to return to these countries has been to go more in depth. To try to understand. And to show what the safe “bubble” many of us live in here in the western world looks like. From the outside. The world’s least visited countries can also be seen as the most exotic ones. You are at least virtually guaranteed not to meet your neighbour, boss or ex-girlfriend. Enjoy your travels. 20 Guinea-Bissau, Africa 1.8 million inhabitants (Wikipedia); 44,000 tourists (UNWTO) Fancy a banana? One of the street markets in Bissau, Guinea-Bissau. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? It is challenging to attract visitors to a country where staging coups comes across as a favourite pastime activity. And as if that didn’t make it hard enough, the country name doesn’t really stand out much in international marketing. Guinea-Bissau competes with Equatorial Guinea, Guinea, Guyana and Papa New Guinea. Not to forget French territory French Guyana in South America. I have even left out semi-similar Ghana and Gambia. Why still visit? The people in Bissau, the capital, knows how to party. Especially during Carnival. And being a former Portugese colony has influenced the architecture, and guaranteed decent food and good beer. But you haven’t really visited the country until you have checked out the Bissagos Islands, arguably the most outstanding archipelago in Africa. What else? Orango Island is famous for its salt water hippos. It is less well known that it is governed by women. There is nothing wrong with that, just be aware that they traditionally select their husband and that men do not have much of a say. Bring your wife, or you might end up with two. 19 Mauritania, Africa 4.3 million inhabitants (Wikipedia); 39,000 tourists (UNWTO) On the beach just down from the fishmarket in Nouakchott, Mauritania. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? A French family was killed in a terror attack on Christmas Eve 2007. This received massive media coverage internationally, and Dakar Rally was cancelled the following year as a result. The terrorism reputation still makes some people uneasy about travelling here. Why still visit? The creative chaos on the beach outside capitol Nouakchott will keep you fascinated and entertained for hours. Fishermen, fish transporters and fish sellers are everywhere, surrounded by colourful wooden boats. And getting in is easy, you can get your visa on arrival. What else? Do not confuse the country with Mauritius, an island nation in the Indian Ocean. And be aware that Mauritania was the last country to outlaw slavery as late as in 2007. Slaves are allegedly still kept in some rural areas. 18 São Tomé and Príncipe, Africa 200,000 inhabitants (Wikipedia); 29,000 tourists (UNWTO) If you only have one tunnel, of course it becomes famous. It is a favourite postcard motif. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? You have probably only heard about one of the airlines that can take you there. And to travel there by boat may set you back 40 hours. Why still visit? São Tomé and Príncipe has everything; incredible beaches for swimming and surfing, rain forest, spectacular mountains, a good selection of hotels and a vibrant nightlife. Not to forget the world’s best chocolate by Claudio Corollo. The restaurants and cafés are not at all bad, either. And the Portugese heritage has contributed to decent infrastructure. What else? There is one road tunnel in the country. It is so famous that you can even find it on postcards. 17 Comoros, Africa 800,000 inhabitants (Wikipedia); 28,000 tourists (UNWTO) Rumour has it a luxury hotel will be built by this beach, just outside the town of Mitsamiouli, Comoros. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? Most people haven’t even heard about the country. And those that have, are likely to have picked up the rumour about its horrid roads. It isn’t just a rumour. Other infrastructure is lacking too, luxury hotels are virtually unheard of there. Why still visit? Comoros is among the world’s most underestimated holiday destinations. The scenery is stunning, snorkeling and scuba diving opportunities are everywhere and the beaches are world-class. Yet, hardly anyone visits them. Unless you count turtles and dolphins. What else? More airlines are adding Comoros to their route maps. You should explore this incredible country before it gets too crowded. Just get a 4WD rental car if you intend to explore anywhere outside Moroni. 16 Solomon Islands, Oceania 600,000 inhabitants (Wikipedia); 26,000 tourists (UNWTO) Guadacanal is such a green island. A shame about the awful roads. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? This country used to be a well known hotspot for cannibals. Although not necessarily related, few airlines would take you here. This has however recently changed. Why still visit? You may come across some incredible surfing spots, although most of them are quite hard to get to without a boat or hiking boots. Solomon Islands is an up and coming luxury destination, primarily thanks to Australian tourists and a growing number of high-end hotels and lodges. Scuba divers will have a field day on Iron Bottom Sound, between the islands of Guadalcanal and Nggela Sule. 67 ships and around 1,500 planes found their resting places there during WWII. What else? Don’t even think about renting a car here. Only pickup trucks, SUVs and helicopters will do, thanks to a horrid road standard. 15 Guinea, Africa 12.4 million inhabitants (Wikipedia); 24,500 tourists (UNWTO) Small areas on the beaches around Conakry in Guinea have been cleared of plastic, so that kids and youngsters can play football. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? Few beaches around the world contain more rubbish than those around the capital Conakry. Add widespread instances of petty theft and petty corruption, and you are likely to become rather annoyed during your holiday. Why still visit? The scenery outside Conakry is just lush. You will also appreciate the warm hospitality, expect to see many warm smiles. They also know how to party until morning comes. What else? A handful of internationally renowned airlines fly to Conakry, not far from where Queen Niara Bely ran her slave empire. She played an important part in making Guinea one one of the biggest contributors of slaves to North America and Europe. 14 Federated States of Micronesia, Oceania 105,000 inhabitants (Wikipedia); 24,000 tourists (UNWTO) Most people in Chuuk live on smaller islands and travel to the main island Weno by small boats for shopping and other errands. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? United was for many years the only international airline serving the country, but Nauru Airlines and Air Niugini have lately expanded the route possibilities substantially. Why still visit? Chuuk Lagoon, one of the four states of FSM, claims to have the world’s best wreck diving. And who can deny them that? Operation Hailstone in February 1944 resulted in 250 Japanese planes being shot down. 44 ships and one submarine can also be found on the bottom of the lagoon. The country consists of 600 islands with a total area of only 700 square kilometers, so you are unlikely to run out of new places to visit. What else? Air Niugini is allegedly opening a new route between Tokyo and Chuuk in September. The airline also serves Pohnpei, the island where capital Kolonia is located, on its way to and from Port Moresby in PNG. 13 Afghanistan, Asia 34.7 million inhabitants (Wikipedia); 13,400 tourists (garfors.com) Kabul counts five million inhabitants. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? It is a true shame that so few people get to experience the amazing hospitality and the incredible scenery in this country. But that’s a result of leading the grim statistics of terrorist attacks (together with Iraq). Why still visit? There are still safe areas in Afghanistan, and I strongly encourage you to take advantage. Bamiyan is one of the 34 provinces there, and arguably the safest. Which means that it gets 200,000 of Afghan tourists a year, and a few hundred foreign ones. It is best known for snow covered peaks, colourful lakes and the remains of the world’s two biggest Buddha statues. The 1,400 year old rock art was destroyed by Taliban in 2001 for being ‘unislamic’. And believe it or not, there is a ski resort here. Conditions are excellent! There is a yearly ski competition open to anyone with skis or a snowboard. The only rule: “No weapons allowed”. What else? It is easy to obtain a visa to Afghanistan, you usually get it in two days or shorter. Be advised that it can be an advantage to know someone on the inside. But most hotels will be happy to organize for you to be picked up. 12 Somalia, Africa 14.3 million inhabitants (Wikipedia); 12,200 tourists (garfors.com) Catch of today en route Mogadishu Fish Market. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? Somalia has been war-ridden for years and is the world’s most corrupt country. No wonder it also has the world’s lowest GNP, by far, although a big informal economy partly explains that. Why still visit? There is a new government in Somalia, and the economy is growing relatively fast. New buildings are popping up everywhere in capital Mogadishu and the long gone positivity seems to have returned. Some travel agencies, such as Visit Mogadishu, welcome tourists in Mogadishu, and will provide you with a guide, a driver and armed guards. You will not be allowed to leave the airport without own security. What else? Somaliland is one of 18 regions in the country, but it is also a self-declared state, albeit acknowledged by no countries. It is relatively well-developed, safe and can easily be visited overland from Djibouti and Ethiopia or by plane from several countries in Africa and the Middle East. Somaliland is the reason why Somalia is not number 4 or 5 on this list. 11 Turkmenistan, Asia 5.7 million inhabitants (Wikipedia); 7,000 tourists (garfors.com) Yes, you do actually have to visit “Door to Hell”, or the Darvaza gas crater in Karakum desert. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? Everyone needs a visa to go there, and it can be a tricky process. A tourist agency will apply on your behalf, but some people have applied 3 or 4 times without luck, others are granted a visa on their first attempt. If successful, you will receive the visa stamp on arrival in the airport or at most land border crossings. Very convenient, given that you are born lucky. Why still visit? This is one of the strangest countries in the world. Ashgabat, the capital, has more marble covered buildings than any other city, 543 at the last count. That secured it a Guinness World Record. The white structures cover an area of 4.5 million square meters, but resemble a ghost town as many of them are hardly in use. What else? You just have to visit the “Door to Hell” in the Karakum desert. Tourism agencies will drive you there, accommodate you in tents and cook for you near the crater. It’s a bizarre experience and one of my favourite tourist activities, ever. 10 Marshall Islands, Oceania 53,000 inhabitants (Wikipedia); 6,000 tourists (UNWTO) A double ship wreck in Majuro Atoll. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? Everything is relative. 10,000 is actually twice as many as in 2015. The country is however still hard to get to, and limited competition guarantees high ticket prices for flights. Why still visit? If the number of tourists continue to double every few years you wanna visit before it gets too crowded. The 1,059 registered fish species makes it the world’s fishiest nation. Consider it a criminal offence not to dive there. What else? The Bikini Atoll is part of the country. The now famous garment was introduced a few days after the United States conducted tests of atomic bombs there in 1946 and received massive news coverage. A marketing genius seized the opportunity of a little name grab. 9 Kiribati, Oceania 110,000 inhabitants (Wikipedia); 3,600 tourists (garfors.com) I’ve had worse views. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? How can you book a ticket to a country you don’t know exists, let alone know how to pronounce? Why still visit? The colours of the sea are truly amazing! It also helps that the very welcoming people here will make you feel at home from day one. Expect to be greeted by “Ko na Mauri” or just “Mauri” accompanied with a big smile. It means “You will be well”. What else? The country is pronounced “Kiribass”, not “Kiribati”. A “ti” or a “tu” in a word is pronounced as “s”. So, women named Teretia should be called “Teresa” and the biggest town Betio is of course pronounced “Beso”. You may be surprised to hear that as many as five airlines now operate international routes to and from the country. Seize the opportunity. 8 Equatorial Guinea, Africa 1.2 million inhabitants (Wikipedia); 2,400 tourists (garfors.com) Justin Jay is the first person to have filmed drills in their natural habitat. The film is called The Lost Kings of Bioko and will be released in late 2018. Photo: Justin Jay. Why so few? Getting a visa to Equatorial Guinea can be a daunting task. The process has luckily improved a lot the last few years, especially at the embassies in London and Berlin. Do note that US citizens do not need visas to go here, but all other foreigners do. Why still visit? The flora and fauna on Bioko, the island where capital Malabo is located, is unique and very impressive. The reclusive drill monkey had for instance never been filmed in its natural habitat. Not until Justin Jay, a film maker I met there, managed to track them down. His film ‘The Lost Kings of Bioko‘ will premiere in late 2018. You should certainly visit, but avoid the southern part of Bioko during rainy season. Unless you’re happy with 10,450 millimeters of rain. What else? The dictatorship is currently building a new capital in Río Muni, on the mainland. It is being constructed in the middle of the jungle in the new province of Djibloho which was created in 2017. The new capital will be called Ciuadad de la Paz, or City of Peace. No one lives there yet, but 200,000 are expected to call it their home by the end of 2020. Equatorial Guinea has huge oil reserves, which fund such extravagant projects. 7 South Sudan, Africa 8 million inhabitants (Al Jazeera); 2,200 tourists (garfors.com) People in South Sudan are paranoid about being photographed. Which got me into big trouble with the police. Four times. These outboard engine mechanics by the Nile were however happy to model. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? The civil war in South Sudan has led to a big humanitarian crisis, and over 30 percent of the population has fled the country. Why still visit? This is one of the most underestimated countries in Africa for wildlife. Important animal corridors cross the country, and huge herds of animals use them every season. This results in the world’s second-largest land mammal migration. You will see giraffes, elephants, lions and hippopotamuses to name a few. What else? Be very, very careful about photographing or filming in South Sudan. Both police officers and random men on the street are likely to harass you and demand money if they see you snap any photos of anyone or anything. A senior police officer brought me in to the Vice Minister of Media, and I had to sign a letter of apology for my outrageous camera activities. 6 Eritrea, Africa 5 million inhabitants (Wikipedia); 2,000 tourists (garfors.com) Fiat and Fiat in Asmara. You’ll find some of the world’s finest Art Deco architecture here. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? Eritrea has one of the world’s longest serving dictators and the country is second last on Reporters Without Borders’ Press Freedom Index. Narrowly ahead of North Korea. Why still visit? Asmara is Art Deco heaven. Not bringing your camera will annoy you from here to eternity. The country is very diverse, and there are many other places you should also visit, not least Massawa by the Red Sea. Leaving the capital does however require a tourist permit which you can apply for at Ministry of Tourism in the main street. What else? You are lucky if there is no Eritrean embassy in your country, as that enables you to get a visa on arrival. You will however need to organize this in advance, I suggest that you contact my friend Tekeste who runs a travel company in Asmara. He is a very nice guy and happy to help with visas and tours. 5 Central African Republic, Africa 4.6 million inhabitants (Wikipedia); 1,000 tourists (garfors.com) I was invited to visit a pygmy village a couple of hours drive from Bangui, the capital. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? There is a civil war going on in CAR, and a heavy UN presence. Large parts of the country is controlled by different armed groups and rebels, and random killings are commonplace. Why still visit? There are 2,000 gorillas and a big population of forest elephants in Dzanga-Sangha Special Reserve, currently the only safe tourist attraction in the country. Bangui, the capital, has also got a lot to offer, next to Ubangi River with a lot of boat traffic to and from DRC. What else? There are some pygmy villages not too far from Bangui. Most of them welcome visitors. Even I came across as tall when meeting the chief and his villagers. 4 Tuvalu, Oceania 11,000 inhabitants (Wikipedia); 800 tourists (garfors.com) When your country is only 26 square kilometers big, the runway has to be used for more than planes. Kids play sports on it every day. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? Tuvalu is the most inaccessible country in the world. It is served by propeller planes only, which takes three hours from Fiji and even longer from Kiribati. Boats come and go once a month, if that, and they aren’t made for passengers. Why still visit? It is projected to be the first country to “sink” if sea levels increase due to global warming. To experience a country with a population of only 11,000 spread over nine islands and connected by infrequent ferries is truly unique. Expect to meet the prime minister on the street. What else? Funafuti, the capital, really comes to life every time a plane arrives, which means three or four times a week. People set up street stalls to sell food and souvenirs, and the main topic of discussion is naturally who will be coming to town. The airport code is “FUN”. 3 Libya, Africa 6.3 million inhabitants (Wikipedia); 200 tourists (garfors.com) Where gladiators used to kill. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? Another civil war explains a bit. But the biggest barrier is the total lack of tourist visas. To visit, you have to fake being on business. Sherwes Travel will help you with logistics and security, at a price. Why still visit? Leptis Magna is one of the best preserved ancient cities in the world. Up to 100,000 people used to live in the 2,700 year old city which was abandonded in year 700 and later covered by the Sahara. It was rediscovered in the 1930s. I walked around all alone. Pure magic! What else? Tripoli International Airport (TIP) is currently not operational, following the Battle of Tripoli in 2014. To visit the capital by air, you have to fly in to Mitiga International Airport (MJI) which used to be an American air base. Travelling overland is not recommended. 2 Nauru, Oceania 13,000 inhabitants (World Bank); 130 tourists (garfors.com) If you run the 21 kilometers around the country, you will “always” see the seaside of Nauru. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? Nauru is only 21 square kilometers big, and there is not much to see or do. There is of course a beach around most of the semi-circular island, but even swimming in bluegreen lukewarm waters becomes tiresome after a while. And getting a visa will typically take you 6-12 weeks. Why still visit? It used to be the least visited country in the world. That is no longer the case, but being the runner up is not a bad feat, and I expect that it will reclaim its claim to fame when things calm down a bit in the world’s least visited country. What else? There are clubs for men (women are not allowed) that tame frigatebirds. Club members lure the birds towards them by using an innovative mixture of particularly smelly fish, and snatch them with an “abio”, some kind of a lasso. A unique pattern is cut into the wings so that anyone can recognize which birds are tamed and which are not when they fly hundreds of meters high. 1 Yemen, Asia 27.6 million inhabitants (Wikipedia), 60 tourists (garfors.com) Aden from above. Photo by Lexie Alford. She was my photographer in Yemen. You can see more of her fabulous photos in the book. A short boat ride from Bassem Alwan, west of Aden. Not exactly how you’d imagine Yemen. Creative Commons licenced photo by Gunnar Garfors. Why so few? The conflict between the Iranian backed Houthies in the north and the Salafi movement supported by Saudi Arabia and UAE in the south has escalated and led to one of the world’s worst humanitarian crises in modern times. There is severe lack of food and water in many areas. Most flights in and out of the country have been cancelled Why still visit? Yemen is such a beautiful and diverse country with hospitality second to none. Capital Sana’a is located 2,200 meters above sea level and its old city looks like a giant gingerbread town. There are also stunning mountains west of the capital and some truly amazing beaches and picturesque villages along the coast. What else? Socotra, 500 kilometers from the mainland, is one of the world’s most unique islands and often referred to as Galapagos of the East. It is rather peaceful, but not particularly easy to get to. Most of the countrys few tourists come here, on own yachts. What about North Korea? No, I haven’t forgotten North Korea, Chad or Burundi. You can find a complete list of the number of tourists annualy to every country here. You will not be surprised to find out that France is the 198th least visited country in the world. The most touristy country, in other words. Want to read the book? The book about the world’s 20 least visited countries is due to be published this winter. The working title is The World’s 20 Least Visited Countries. Please sign up to receive an email when the book is available to buy. You can follow the Gunnar Garfors on Instagram, Twitter or Facebook. The 43 year old Norwegian has visited every country in the world, is still travelling extensively and shares photos and travel tips from all over the world on social media. Gunnar Garfors in Yemen in April 2018. #worldsleastvisitedcountries #turkmenistan #Kiribati #Eritrea #notourists #hardestcountriestovisit #equatorialguinea #Yemen #centralafricanrepublic #fewestpeoplevisitthesecountries #leastvisitedcountries #southsudan #libya #leastvisitedcountriesintheworld #mostuniquedestinations #Tuvalu #Nauru #unusualdestinations